Auto-dry on your model works by temperature, controlled by the thermostats on the blower housing. The timer does not run while the heating source (electric element or gas burner) is active ... that is, when the exhaust air (drum temp) is less than the target operating temperature. When the target temp is reached, the element turns off and the timer turns on ... until the temp drops enough to trigger the heat source back on. And so it goes, cycling between heat-on/timer-off and heat-off/timer-on until the "time" runs out to Off. Per parts diagrams your machine has two operating thermostats (high and low temp selection, presumably), one of them may be bad. If you normally run on high, try low to see if it works then. If it doesn't work on either, then the heating element may be partially failed such that it isn't producing enough heat to reach the target temperatures. Or there's a problem with the timer related to internal contacts for the auto-dry function. Or the exhaust ducting is clogged and you've not yet found where.

The heating element should not get power unless the motor is running. If it does, that typically means the element is broken and touching the frame (shorted to ground). Repair is replacement of the element. Best not to order parts until the problem is fully diagnosed. There's a thermal fuse on the heater box that may also be blown (if the element is hot with no airflow over it). The fuse being blown won't stop the element from heating if it's shorted but the new element won't heat if the fuse is blown. Element is part number 279838 ($45-ish depending on the source). Thermal fuse kit 279816 which includes the high-limit thermostat on the heater box, they should be replaced together ($30-ish).

"...do i need to turn dryer upside down..." No. Diagnose by doing this: 1) examine air flow from exit of vent all the way on the outside. Remember what that air-flow feels like. Then, 2) go inside and disconnect the machine from the vent. Turn machine on and compare that air-flow with what you saw outside. The air-flow should be pretty much the same at both observation points. This simple test will tell you if blower/fan operating OK and if there's an unnoticed obstruction.

Assuming your unit has a mechanical timer, could be a contact is welded shut causing the heating element to stay on continuously.