"Why not consult with the permits department or engineering department of your municipality and see what conforms to their norms." For the most part hoods and vent fans are not required for residential use. The AHJ is also not there to tell you how to design things. Who said your gas range needs a hood with an exhaust of 1200CFM? I am not expert, but this seems like a lot of air flow to me. This sounds like to type of air flow required for a commercial stove in a restaurant. " It depends a great deal on the style of cooking that will be used. Indoor grilling take a lot of exhaust capacity (and make up air) to avoid filling the kitchen with smoke. Even a cast iron griddle across two burners can make plenty of smoke. If all you do is boil things, a smaller exhaust hood might be fine. Since most people cook a variety of items in varying styles a variable speed hod is worth having. When making a lot of smoke you can crank it up, but leave it on lower for smaller less smoky tasks. And an 85,000 BTU/hr cooktop is much larger than a typical residential top. It is at the bottom of pro type equipment for a 4 burner.

quote" I have made some calls and am getting prices of 15K and up for adding a roof that is tied into our tiled roof. Can anyone help me with some other ideas on how we can add the roof for less? "quote Your home is at best a 4 pitch, your tile roofing is very heavy, and if your getting a bid for 15k from a reputable contractor, I'd say "Jump on it right now". The shed valley required for this will have minimum pitch and you would be best served by having a pro do the work. These tiles will take a lesser pitch. quote" My husband is very handy but is not comfortable about adding the roof himself. (He has built 2 boats, gutted and renovated a kitchen, turned a back porch into our 3rd bedroom) "quote I certainly don't want you, or your husband, to take this the wrong way. But, whatever you do, DO NOT attempt this as an owner/builder project. You'll surely regret it. You should have this improvement grafted into the existing framing and roof everything in the same roofing tiles. I just ran a spread on your project based on the picture and size and came up with a sell price of well over 15k turnkey with paint and new aluminum gutters with downspouts. My market, SE Texas is probably comparable with yours in pricing. See ya, Kelly

Slight correction to what I mentioned above. Photobucket has a preset resizing feature if you load photos there. If you have the photo selected, hold your mouse over the top of the picture & options will appear above. It's the third one in "resize". If you're looking at a bunch of photos in your the album you'll need to go under the edit feature.

1. Yes, there should be a "bump" or distinct line showing between the top part that is the fruit you want, ie; the "scion" and the root stock. 2. Grafted trees produce fruit much sooner than seedling trees, as the grafted part (scion) is taken from a mature tree that is already fruiting. Also various root stocks will impart various traits to the trees, depending on the type of root stock. For example, some will dwarf a tree, some have resistance to certain root diseases or be more compatible to different types of soils. A cutting is taking a cut part of a young branch of a mature tree and putting it into soil so it develops it's own roots. It will also fruit younger like the graft as it's taken from a mature tree, but it will be on it's own roots, not grafted roots. It is cheaper for a grower to do this, and you lose any added benefits you would get from a particular root stock, but it's an inexpensive way to get a quickly fruiting tree. A seedling is the least expensive way to propagate citrus. Down side is that it can take anywhere from 5 to 15 years for a seedling to be mature enough to produce fruit. 3. A stake is just a strong tall stick or pole used to train a tree. You tie the trunk to it to keep it in an upright position when the tree is young until the tree is strong enough to keep that position without the stake, usually about 1-2 years. The ties must be checked and enlarged as the tree grows so as to not girdle or choke the trunk. 4. The tip pruning I mentioned will do this. But it can also be done later, after a year or two, when the tree has more leaves. Either way will work. By the way, if you don't have a tree on a dwarfing root stock, it will take a lot of pruning several times a year to keep it at 3 feet. This will limit the amount of fruit you will get, as pruning does take off the tips of the branches. Citrus produce their fruit on the tips of new growth, so if you are always pruning these off, to keep it small, you will not get very much fruit at all. If it's on dwarfing root stock you can keep it smaller and you may get more fruit, though 3 feet is still very small even for dwarf tree. Remember a full sized lemon or orange tree wants to get over 20 feet so that's a lot of pruning. A dwarf root stock will keep it at about 5 to 8 feet, quite a bit smaller than a full sized tree, but still bigger than 3 feet. Meyer lemons are a different case though. They are naturally smaller anyway and on a dwarf root stock can be kept around 4 feet, but you will still sacrifice some fruit for pruning it so small. Fyi.