Hi tigerninety! My name is Kim and I work with Milliken floor covering on a variety of communications activities. I came across this post and wanted to share some insight for you from the Milliken team (included below). Good luck with your basement renovations - hope others join in the conversation! Kim MillikenâÂÂs Legato product is focused on consumers interested in the easiest DIY solution to creating a frieze broadloom-like look at a price much closer to the total cost of installed broadloom (carpet + pad as Legato comes with cushion backing) without the complexity of involving professional installers. Therefore, in this case, choice should be driven by what you want to accomplish in terms of design with the basement and the magnitude of premium, if any, you are willing to pay to achieve this.

For least expensive and to lose the least headroom, I'd recommend you take a look into using a resilient channel. Screw the RC to the ceiling joists, then screw the drywall to the RC. It decouples the drywall from the structural framing. If you can add a second layer of drywall, that'd help too. The idea of adding cut up ceiling tile to the acoustical insulation within the framing bay probably won't help as much as actually decoupling the framing from the finish surfaces of the two rooms.

You're not splitting your FiOS cable - that is just the type of delivery method used to your ONT (optical network terminal). What you are splitting is the MoCA (multimedia over coax)signal from the ONT used for supplying television, internet, and a LAN. As far as the best wiring method, this really needs to be checked onsite by a MoCA qualified installer - either your cable company (if they offer indoor wiring service) or an independent A/V installer. The splitters, and where they are located, is what makes the system work. Amplifiers are usually not required, but if they are, they need to be designed for MoCA use - this is a bidirectional system. The splitters are also designed for MoCA as well as any required filters. I'm quite familiar with all this but, unfortunately, it is not something that can be answered online. If your concern right now is finishing the wiring, your best bet is to home-run everything back to one central point - which is typical of any installation. If you do have to couple any cables to extend them, be sure to leave the couplers accessible in case there is a bad connector causing signal problems.

Questions like this always amaze me since in-wall rated LV wiring such as: speaker, coax, HDMI, video, low level audio, communication, control, and CAT5/5e/6 is so readily available, you actually almost have to go out of your way nowadays to find wiring & cable that not in-wall rated. Usually it comes up when somebody is attempting to run that "speaker wire from the 80's" through walls - that clear zip cord junk that starts oxidizing before you even strip it. In-wall rated speaker wiring, besides being proper from a jacket safety standpoint, is easier to work with, has a more durable jacket, and is much smoother to pull. And the other thing - it is usually less expensive than the cheap stuff. The NEC does not specifically address low voltage "home theater wiring" such as in-wall drops from a display device to equipment below, and in-wall connections from finished product, in residential settings, since is not always considered "structured wiring". However, NEC articles 640, 725, & 820 come closest to addressing this and would probably be what most AHJs would reference if the installation was being inspected.