Yesterday I had to approve the layout for my new granite for my kitchen. Since I already have a backsplash and it's relatively new I wanted to keep it. When they demo'ed the Corian they did not injure it at all, still there, looks perfect. But yesterday they informed me they will have to raise the granite to meet the bottom of the already in place tile. I did hear the word "shim" mentioned. I am almost thinking I would rather have added a pencil trim piece at the bottom of the tile than to have the granite raised to meet it. She assured me that you would not be able to see the shim unless you got underneath the cabinet and looked up at the bottom of the ogee edge. I don't know if I will be ok with this...sigh... I asked if Corian was thicker than granite and she said no it's just that it was mounted on wood so it was higher. The granite I am getting is the usual 3cm. Maybe they do this all the time and it will be fine??? I'm a little anxious about this. They also have to build a "cradle" to support my heavy cast iron sink because it weighs 126 lbs. But when they went to look for my sink they couldn't find it!!! I delivered it to them weeks ago to have on hand when they got ready to fabricate. Oh well....if it's lost maybe I'll get that lighter weight Silgranite, lol. I would have gotten it to start with but they did not have any configurations that worked for our plumbing and husband was not happy with a major change to that. We had 70/30 and already with a disposal on small side it was just too much to change and deal with so that is why I ended up with the Lakefied Kohler. I like it well enough but would have been fun to do a newer looking design.

Hi Everybody, I use a ruler I don't see mentioned around here. It's not a quilter's ruler, but one I've had most of my life. It's 2" wide x 18" long; I've always used it. I used it as Editor of High School Yearbook to layout out pix of 535 seniors, each single one w/ a 1/4" border. This ruler grid is in eights of an inch, does a GREAT 1/4 inch. Got me through Textile School & years of plotting weave diagrams on graph paper also 1/8" grid. When rotary cutters came along, I found one of these rulers w/ a 1/4" metal edge, which is just perfect for rotary cutting & also drawing on 1/4" seams for all my quilt seams. The manufacturer is the C-Thru Ruler Company & it's clear plastic w/ the grid in red or turquoise. I'll have to take a pic sometime. I simply could not be w/out it.

Here is some old-time-carpenter's geometry. If the curve is an arc (part of a circle), it is easy to draw using three nails and two boards. Both methods require you to put a nail at the end point and center of the arc. Then get two boards and create either a half-lap or gusset to hold them together at the ends. It does not have to be fancy or neat. Method 1: * Put the two boards joined so they create a "triangle" or large "V" with each board (same edge) touching both one end point and the center point. * Fasten the boards to maintain this angle (let glue dry, nail together, etc. whatever works for you.) * Put a pencil in the apex of the V and keeping the boards in contact with the left and center nail, trace the left side of the arc. * Repeat for the right side. Note if the V apex angle is 90 degrees, you will have a semi-circle (half circle). Method 2: * Lay the first board from the left nail to the center nail as before. * Attach the second board PARALLEL to the chord (the line connecting the endpoints of the arc.) The easiest way to do this is simply measure from the chord up to the midpoint and mark the same distance above the right endpoint. * Securely fasten the V as before. * Remove the center nail. * Trace the arc with the pencil in the apex, keeping the boards in contact with each endpoint nail. This method requires longer boards, but is one operation and not two.

For some reason I never could warm to to Umberto Eco's writing, no mater how much of it is spot on, see his last quote.