The info above is excellent. I use graph paper, too. FYI, most planners recommend that you orient your rows north to south so that all plants get maximum sun. Also, if you store your leftover seed in ziploc bags in the refrigerator, you can use it for two, maybe even 3 or 4 years more. If my seed is more than two years old, I sow more heavily in order to get a good stand. Still, it's better than wasting seed altogether. I would just point out that if your plot is four feet wide AND has an adequate path around it, you can plant the entire 24'x4' area solidly with plants (a la Square Foot Gardening). By standing in the path, you should be able to reach into the center of the bed without needing to step among your plants, thus eliminating the need for rows. (Seed packets might say plant seeds four inches apart in rows two feet apart. You can ignore the two feet apart if you don't have to walk among the plants.) If you have good soil and are feeding no more than four people, and not planning to can, etc., 3 or 4 tomato plants are probably all you will need. If you cage them, you can plant them 2 feet apart. So a 4'x4' square on the north end will accomodate your tomatoes and you still have 20x4' left for other things. Tomatoes must be rotated every year, so next year you get back to the shading problem. You might want to consider growing your tomatoes in pots so that you can change out the potting mix every year. This, of course, would free up sixteen more square feet for other things. Gardeners Supply has a garden planning tool on their website that you can use for free too. I enclose a link. (I don't work for them. I just buy from them.) Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Planner

When we had a home efficiency audit as part of a quote for a new HVAC unit. I seem to recall the guy who performed the test telling me that you need the gap under the doors for proper airflow and for the HVAC to function at its best. He suggested we increase the opening on one of our doors that had carpet under it. I would think this would be especially important for a bathroom since they usually don't have a return register in them. Of course, maybe you leave this door open all the time when the bathroom is not in use, but if you normally leave the door closed then I would consider shortening the door a little bit. This site seems to have the same information as I recall being told. Here is a link that might be useful: Indoor airflow

... here's what I do in my 4.5 - mine is under the Edit section. Then you can import (found in the File section) or the hand in the section above your working section. Usually you can only work with jpegs or bitmaps. - add the graphics you want. You can only put one checkbook on each page... My dimensions are 6.20" x 6.72", but it's a good idea to measure the clear plastic checkbook you will be putting it into - it's not fun to make it all up only to find out it is the wrong size...

Treb- you are truly genius :) That was my 1st idea when they called - either have the seam match where the toekick lands - 5.25" from floor (it's stainless on the other 3 sides of island)... or get more toekick and run it all the way around. They weren't sure if they could hit it exactly at 5.25" and I didn't want to risk a delay (I have backsplash on a tight schedule next week - if we miss his window everything slips 2 weeks). In the end, we already spend so #*@(# much to get this quartz with this specific waterfall look, might as well do it "right" and stay on schedule.