Please Teach Me About Septic Tanks
trudymom
16 years ago
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dannie_gal
16 years agotrudymom
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Please teach me about Piilu Clematis
Comments (2)Congratulations on your first....of what will likely become many - clematis! Hope you find the following helpful. 1) What you read about planting depth is correct - the root crown should be planted 4-6 inches below the soil surface. This helps to generate multiple stems form the base as well as encourage a strong, healthy root system. And with the exception of fruiting figs, tomatoes and potatoes, I know of no other plants that come with a deeper planting guideline. If the planting was recent, there is no reason why you cannot dig up the vine and replant at the proper depth, as long as you are careful with the rootball. Doing so can affect flowering but it is far more important to get the planting right for the long term than to enjoy a few flowers now. If you feel uncomfortable digging and replanting the vine, go ahead and mound soil up to the appropriate depth, making a small berm. That works, too :-) 2) I can't tell you how often to water - no one can. That depends on your soil composition, how fast it drains, temperatures and rainfall amounts. What you want is for the soil to stay evenly moist. If the mulch makes that unclear, go ahead and rake the mulch away to check. And make sure that is evenly moist to the full depth (and preferrably deeper) of the rootball. It will only take a few trials for you to become familiar with your specific conditions and really know how often and how long to water. FWIW, twice a day seems excessive to me if you are giving the newly planted vine a deep, slow drink when you do water, not just a spritz with the sprinkler for a few minutes. 3) MiracleGro or any other water soluble fertilizer can work, although I'd opt for one that encourages blooms rather than foliage (or those with a lower N number). Many clematis growers like to use a tomato or rose fertilizer, both of which are available in organic formulations. Alfalfa meal is very good, as is compost. Your choice :-) 4)You do not need to do anything in winter other than apply mulch. Generally clematis are pruned back in late winter/early spring or when you prune roses in your area. Piilu is a type 2 but you will want to prune your vine back hard for at least the first two growing seasons (next spring and the following). This hard pruning encourages establishment, disease resistance and a good root system and is recommended for all newly planted clematis regardless of pruning type. 5) Fast establishment is the result of following all of the above :-)) Do not expect too much too soon. Clems (and all other vines) need about three years in the ground before they really take off. Encouraging the vine to grower faster than it should (or would naturally) can promote wilt or disease and insect problems. 6) Shading the soil with other plants is not a requirement, especially if you are mulching well. All you need to do is assure an evenly moist root run, which both the mulch and adequate watering will provide. Many folks DO plant at the base of clems - you want a shallow rooted plant that doesn't need much dividing, so you don't chance disturbance of the clematis roots....See MorePlease Teach Me About Whole House Central Vacuum Systems
Comments (10)Ours cost around $1800 for a 3800 sq.ft. home with 6 outlets and 2 vacpans. The vacpans are the things you refer to when you say a spot under the cabinet to sweep dirt into. We asked for them in this new build because we didn't have them in our old house. I love them, by the way. We have a HP Vacuflo which I highly recommend. Our other house had a Nutone which was not nearly as efficient as the Vacuflo and also had extremely heavy hoses. The Vacuflo hose is extremely lightweight and the vacuum head itself is extremely good. It also has great suction. Personally, I would never want to live in a house with a standard vacuum cleaner again. The pros of a central vac systems (IMHO) are: lightweight, much easier to get into tight areas, can move around a large area with ease, less noisy since central unit is located in either garage or basement, no need to buy vac bags or deal with the smelly sock odor of vacuums, and you don't have to empty the canister more than 3 times/year....See MoreSeptic Tank in your new build?
Comments (32)We have a pressurized system, uphill drain field. Had it for almost 20 years. When we built our new house the system had to be inspected. We had the septic guys run some enzymes down the lines which is supposed to help keep them clean and further break-up any small solids that could clog the drain holes, it also help keep the drain field from clogging up. It was in perfect condition after 18 years of use, had it pumped once about 10 years ago. Drain fields have a life span, in almost every case (at least in Oregon) you have to have a plan with a secondary drain field in case the original field fails to leach over time. In talking w/the septic guys these are almost never needed with a properly set-up drain field. There is a required amount of feet needed for the drain field and leach lines depending on the size of your tank and amount of bathrooms in the house. Ours is 300 ft, however it can be done in multiple runs, ours T's 3 times on it's way up the hill. And yes, the grass does stay nice and green over the drain field, mostly following the lines. In nearly 20 years we had the alarm go off once, when the input exceeds the outflow and overwhelms the pump. Had some water back up into the laundry room, it was a very minor event. Glad for the alarm! Ours is 1500/500 gallons. The 500 gallon side has the pump. One thing I will mention don't pay attention to ads by Ridex and the like. Our county has asked all residents on septic systems to NOT add any additives to the septic system. A properly used system will have plenty of bacteria and enzymes to break down the solids. Haven't used the stuff in over 10 years (only used it sporadically prior to that). I'm not exactly sure of their reasoning other than it shouldn't need it, maybe it's not good for the soil....See MorePlanting 'safe rooting shrubs' near a septic tank. Please advise:
Comments (0)I'm in northwest Florida and looking to plant 3 or 4, depending on the mature width, shrubs under a bedroom window but near a septic system for a 3 bedroom 2 bath house. The previous owners had three azaleas under the window too cose to the house and they were never really full enough. One was planted directly next to the clean-out access that leads to the septic, not too smart. I have cut these down to the stumps as best I could. The total length under the window is about 15 feet wide. The septic tank is about 8 feet from the house and is off the corner of that 15 foot expanse under the window. About a year ago when the tank was pumped I looked into the tank and saw no evidence of any kind of root intrusion even with a philodendron planted just a few feet away from the tank The drain field would be 15 to 20 feet away from where I would like to plan these shrubs. I'm not too particular about what to plant and I might just plant more philo's because of the large established one is already there. However, I just want to make sure that philos are okay to plant or if any other species would be safe. Something at least 4 feet wide, dense, and mature under 6 feet or so even though everything would be cut back to no more than about 5 feet high....See Moredannie_gal
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