BV1 has one 9k btu burner and five 15 btu burners. IRV1 has one 9k btu burner,one 18k btu burner and four 15k btu burner. RNB has one 10k btu burner,two 22k btu burner, three 15k btu burner. Ovens are the same now with 1850 degree broilers and convection gas oven.

I have a 36" RCS. I have a Lodge griddle that fits very well over two burners and is easy to use and clean. We don't use a griddle that often so this works perfectly for us. If you use one all the time though, having an integrated griddle might make you happier in the long run. As for the 22vs15k burners, if you don't cook a lot of meat (and it sounds like you don't) then I think you'll find the RCS has plenty of power for you. We had 12k open burners before we got the RCS and the difference is immense, so whether you get the RCS or the RNB you will notice a huge difference in the power of the burners. We do eat fish, but we don't eat red meat and dh eats chicken rarely, so for our type of cooking the RCS has plenty of power. Pan searing fish is wonderful on these burners. Sautéing, braising and caramelizing are all a breeze. We also do a lot of stir frys (no meat in them though) and they come out great. My guess is that the thin slices of meat you would use in a stir fry would sear and cook perfectly fine. 15k open burners put out a lot of heat!

What is a "local safety officer"? What do you mean "a bunch of back and forth" with your "local safety officer and Wolf"? What prompted you to use your CO meter to test the levels? They are employed by our BC safety Authority who are the regulators for all regulated work, gas and electrical and such. As a licensed gas fitter I hold my ticket through them and they are the final say when it comes to appliance safety. Permits and approvals for equipment go through them. I chatted at length with him about the stove and he did agree we can’t do anything because it meets ANSI standards being below 800ppm, but he did say he wouldn’t have it in his house. His advice to me was if Wolf won’t do anything to then adjust the burner input by under firing the appliance to bring the CO back inline. I went to Wolf with this information and they said ‘based on your requirements I don’t think Wolf products will be right for you, would you consider a buy back’. Checking CO is very common here in Canada especially when commissioning an appliance. I didn’t mention the CO alarm going off because it never went off, however it did show peak levels in the 15-19ppm range after cooking for a short period of time. Enough to make me concerned with a pregnant wife and 2 yr old. This is what will happen if you in a room where the CO levels are 800 ppm. The ANSI standards are referring to the CO levels in the air coming out of the range vent. 800 ppm air coming out of the vent does not translate to a room concentration of 800 ppm. Especially if you have your ventilation on. Now, if you were getting 250-300 ppm where the cook was standing, that indicates a concentration of way more than 800 ppm out of the vent, and thus a violation of ANSI standards. Either way, those readings were way too high and Wolf's response was poor. Yes, I agree, somewhat. The stove should never be operating at the ANSI levels, your house would build up to a dangerous level of CO over time ie. When cooking a turkey for hours. Our utility will actually shut down any gas range over 540ppm during normal operation. Also they shutdown any other appliance if its over 250ppm while operating. I agree we need ANSI standards but as new homes get built tighter and with less makeup air having a cooking appliance pumping 800ppm at the vent/flue is insane. Consider this regulation was put in place in 1926, buildings have changed considerably since then. So, what happened when you tried adjusting it? Was 250-300 ppm the lowest it would go? That would surprise me, I have adjusted several gas ranges and have usually been able to get them down to 30-40 ppm from as high as 500 ppm. I knew this question would pop up, but yes I went through the full range of what is reasonable on a brand new appliance. Below is what I went through, to try and reduce the CO: Tested inlet pressure, adjusted within 1”wc of manifold pressure. ‘Wolf recommends having inlet pressure within 1” for proper operation’ – no change Checked flip top regulator and it was set to natural gas Checked manifold pressure on stove it was at 5”wc Verified orifice was correct as per spec sheet supplied by Wolf Adjusted air shutter, no change was actually higher and this was the lowest I was able to get the stove to run at CO tests were done after 10-15 minutes of operation and the burners were warm Clocked meter to verify burner input is correct Verified no blockage in burner tube Verified all secondary air ports were free and clear House is still very drafty, so not a lack of air within the house The only thing I never did was under fire it, as I didn't want to go down that road on a brand new piece of equipment. Wolf blew me away with their service and willingness to make a customer happy. From a cooking standpoint however, it will be Bluestar for us.

Don't know how well it applies to the Bluestar model that you are interested in, but I did a time vs. temperature plot on my Bluestar 30" RCS range right after it was installed (convection fan off): Not sure how representative this is for other models or how much oven burner adjustments at installation would affect the results (The air/gas ratio and thermostat set temperature are adjustable). It is just a single test on a single model sample. BTW, Bluestar RCS and RNB models have a single bottom burner. It is the Platinum model that has the rear wall burner without a bottom burner.