The Ikea Datid or Nutid S23 are worth checking out - basically the same thing as the Whirlpool WRS965CIAM with different handles and missing the beverage rack (which can be ordered from the parts department if you must have it), but with an excellent 5-year warranty, and often a lower price. Similar refrigerators are also sold under the Kenmore, KitchenAid, and Jenn-Air brands, the latter two which Whirlpool owns. There are two heights available, the taller ones are about 72"h, almost 3" higher than the shorter ones for a bit of extra space inside if you have the height available. The Ikea is short only, Jenn-Air tall only, and the Whirlpool and Kitchenaid available both ways. These are new designs, with sleek LED lighting, wide glass shelves, and icemakers that don't take up any room in the main freezer compartment. There are minor feature differences between the different brands, but they're all the same basic design, and a vast improvement over the outmoded refrigerators Whirlpool was making until last year. The Electrolux Icon (and less-expensive Electrolux, Kenmore, and Frigidaire offshoots) are also worth a look, as are Samsung and LG.

Sorry, typo! I meant the 2060, a freestanding right-door opening fridge, which is what I actually linked. I will link it again here. @tinyone. Can you provide measurements around the cut out and the distance in inches from the interior of the cutout to the wall? Without that information it's hard to truly help. @sjhockey - I agree that a right opening door is not ideal. But it offers the best chance of opening enough so the fridge actually can be used. Unless there is enough clearance it can't open left because even a 0-clearance hinge fridge has a handle which will hit the wall and may not fully open. But we can only make "if this" suggestions without the facts/ measurements. Given the facts the OP has posted so far, I don't believe the agent is right. I think I am right. But that could change depending on how far it is from the fridge cutout to the wall on the left and how much space there is between the ovens and the cut out on the right. And if there's enough space for the door to swing open in the aisle between the fridge wall and the island. @tiny -- if you are doing other work in the house, a competent GC could make this all go away very easily. Depending -- again -- on the current location of the electrical outlet in the fridge cut out and the location of the water line it might need an electrician and a plumber in addition to a carpenter who is good enough to do fine finish work and alter an existing cabinet well enough to reuse pieces as needed. If a GC has a good crew, that's the way to go. The percentage paid to him will be worth it as he will be responsible. But I wouldn't let anyone touch anything until you ID a fridge that can function in the space somehow and after you've identified what will need to be altered more or less. Then I'd meet with the GC with the spec sheets in front of you to discuss his suggestions on how to go forward and what it will cost. Only after that would I make a purchase. OTOH, if the cabinet store that furnished the cabinets is known, might be worth a call to them. But then no one person is responsible. I also would be careful about where I purchase the fridge. It weighs 400 pounds. It needs to go from the truck to the door of the house closest to the kitchen. When my fridge was delivered it was to the bottom of my driveway -- the contractor had to bring it up. Don't assume anything. Ask a ton of questions. I'd want people there with the right equipment and in the right numbers to bring it into without ruining the floors, nicking the door, denting it or at worst -- dropping it. I'd find out in advance if the fridge can be tilted horizontally (some cannot). Unfortunately, this is not a Mom's fridge from Sears situation. Here is a link that might be useful: Liebherr 2060

>>>"Only thing that would fit"Fit how? Height? Width? Depth? Is that "fit" still a controlling factor or will your kitchen remodel allow you to work around the fridge? I ask these questions because any counter depth fridge over 19 cu. ft. is going to be about 36 inches wide (actually 35 and some fractional inches). CD fridges also tend to be slightly taller than similar capacity standard depth models. I just bought a new fridge a week ago and went through some of the same searching you seem to be slogging through. AFAIK, all of the available BF fridge models with capacities over 19 cu. ft. are FD models except for (I think) a GE model that sells for about $2500. Getting a FD model will expand your choices for larger capacity CD fridges. I looked for Counter-Depth (CD) models, and focused on FD models because my kitchen is so narrow. (How narrow? Well, the door of a conventional fridge almost touches the countertop on the other side of the room.) The problem that I ran into was that I wanted/needed a 22 cu. ft. capacity fridge and the CD versions with that capacity were significantly beyond my budget. FD fridges are not everybody's preference. Some people do find them annoying. Do a search here and you'll find several recent threads that discuss the pros, cons and personal preferences on this subject. Basically, choosing a FD design means giving up some storage space on the doors. It also means paying attention to a pair of doors rather than a single door. Bottom freezers also tend to have less capacity than top freezers. I looked at the KitchenAid Architect Series II KBFS20EV, which you mentioned. However, at 19 cu. ft., the capacity was a little too small for me. The models that were the next size up (21-22 cu. ft.) were more to my liking but at $2600 to $2900, the models were too expensive for my budget. (My budget was less than yours, I might add.) I wound up getting a standard depth KitchenAid KBFS22, instead, for a little over $1400. The link below is my review. A lot of what I said applies to the KA CD models. It may answer some of your questions. There are a number of 20-22 cu. ft. freestanding capacity CD fridges but all of them are over $2k in price. LG has a 20 cu. ft. one for about $2150, and there was a Frigidaire Gallery model with 22.6 cu. ft. capacity (FGHG2344MF) that was about $2100 at AJ Madison but rather more expensive elsewhere. The GE Cafe you mentioned runs somewhere between $2300 and $2500, but I think it is a rebadged LG from when GE stopped making its own fridges, and the out-sourced GEs had a terrible reputation for quality control. (Consumer Reports surveys showed recent GE fridges with a 25% problem rate up through last year.) GE started its own production last July at its new plant in Louisville but I did not see any of the line in the local stores when I quit shopping a couple of weeks ago. I suspect that the larger capacity FD/CD units will be outside your $2k budget. As for Whirlpool, all the larger-capacity CD models I saw were models that had through-the-door dispensers (which you do not want) and were only marginally less expensive than the models in the KitchenAid line. (BTW, Whirlpool owns KA, Maytag and Amana, and makes all of those FD fridges in its plant in Iowa.) Up until the most recent CR survey results, Whirlpool was far and away the most reliable line of fridges with an 8% problem rate. THe latest CR survey results came out a couple of weeks ago. They show WP has slipped some as the members are now reporting a problem rate of 12% (which may be a result of WP and KA selling a lot more fridges with through-the-door dispensers which seem to be problemmatic for all makers and cause a lot of the reported problems.) As for Kenmore, my recollection is that the only FD/CD models all had through-the-door dispensers, were made for Sears by LG, and were over $3k. Here is a link that might be useful: kitchenaid kbfs22ewms7 22 cu. ft. fd fridge review

Our refrigerator is on the end of a run in a doorway as well. But, since we have a narrow aisle at that point and our refrigerator is on an outside wall (so no recessing), we went with a counter-depth to save aisle space. As to how to recess into the wall, others have described it pretty well. What isn't mentioned is that some people recess their refrigerator not only into the wall, but into the room behind it. If you need to recess your refrigerator more than 3" or 4", you will need to recess into the next room. However, even those 3" or 4" can help if you have a standard depth refrigerator! Since CD refrigerators are not totally counter-depth, they will stick out several inches beyond the surrounding counters...up to 3" or 4" for the doors and another 2" or so for the handles (depending on the refrigerator). The doors must stick out past the counters to open fully. Because of this, we also built our refrigerator in with end panels (end panels are only as deep as the distance b/w the back wall and the front of the refrigerator carcass/box). Note that a full depth end panel will not make a difference in a "dark corner" b/c the refrigerator will be just as deep so will still create the "dark corner". I.e., whether you have full or partial depth end panels the effect will be the same b/c the refrigerator will be even deeper. One more comment...how deep is the wall next to your refrigerator? If it's deeper than 24" or 25" you will need some filler b/w the refrigerator & the wall...the deeper the wall, the more filler will be needed. If it's no more than 24" or so, you shouldn't need any filler unless there's door trim...then you will probably need filler to clear the door trim.