Not sure if this is it, but I've had this happen in the past when the drawer was not fully closed. Try cycling the unit while pushing in on the door with your foot.

Buster, I have the same problem with the oven in my E'lux range (along with the fact that it subsequently overheats to 50+ degrees over the set temperature), all documented with 4 different oven thermometers. I've also had 2 service visits, replacement of the control panel, and recalibration of the oven. (Sounds only too familiar?) One of the service techs explained to me that ovens are now designed so the preheat alarm/beep/chime goes off well before the oven hits the set temperature. This is because "most people" don't bake anymore, they just use the oven to heat frozen dinners. Frozen dinners are best heated at a gradually increasing temp rather than being placed in an oven that is already at the temp specified on the box. Therefore the inaccurate alarm is a device deliberately designed for the non-cook. The other service tech stated that many budget ovens don't even used a temp probe any more to trigger the preheat alarm. The alarm is set to a timer. You enter the oven temp and the alarm goes off after a predetermined time for that temp. This is also done to keep people from overcooking their frozen dinners. I have no idea if this information is true, but the service techs could not fix my inaccurate preheat alarm "because it's doing what it's designed to do." Their advice, which works, is to wait an additional 1/2 hour after the alarm goes off for the oven to reach the desired temp before putting your food in the oven. I spend most of my time in the kitchen baking fancy, to-die-for desserts, and I have to say that I'm enraged that I paid $3200 for an oven that was apparently designed only to heat TV dinners.

Thank you so much for your response. I do have a humidity control, but it wasn't on. I bet that is the problem/solution! Kitchen aid / whirlpool didn't even have that answer! Thank you for taking the time for responding and cluing me in. Much appreciated.

Kit222 -- Can you be more specific about the doors not staying in place? Do you mean that the right door pops a little bit but then closes itself when you open or close the left door? Or, Do you mean that the right door bounces open and stays open a crack unless you then push it closed? The first is normal. Open your fridge and look at the left door. See the flap/slat along the inside leading edge? When you close the door, the flap goes into a channel that pushes it open parallel to the front of the fridge so it covers the gap between the two doors. That channel locks the flap (and thus the left door) in place. It holds the left door in place when you open and close the right door even though closing the right door gives a little air pressure push. When opening and closing the left door, the the flap bumps against the gasket on the right-side door which makes the right door pop open a teeny bit (from which it should immediately re-seal itself.) Now look at the right door. No flap, right? Nothing to lock the right door in place, right? Nothing to really bump the gasket of the left door. So, opening and closing the left door will make the right one bounce out a little bit but not vice versa. But, that is normal operation. If your problem is that your right door is not immediately resealing itself when you open or close the left door, then something is out of adjustment. That is not "normal." Most likely culprit: your fridge is tilted a little bit forward. That is easy to do when somebody gets a little too anal about leveling the fridge. If that is the problem, just adjust the front leveling feet to give a slight backward tilt. It takes very little adjustment to accomplish this, nowhere near enough to have any adverse effects on anything mechanical (or the levelness of fluids in containers in the fridge if you have that kind of obsession.) Adjusting the leveling feet is covered in the Use and Care Guide that came with your KA.