Quiltgirl - I don't think that would be comfortable, unless you typically stand far back from the cooktop. wi-sailorgirl, here are a few I bookmarked from Houzz: [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Boston Kitchen And Bath Divine Kitchens LLC [Traditional Living Room design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-living-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_718~s_2107) by Toronto Kitchen And Bath Fixtures Enns Cabinetry Inc. [Traditional Bathroom design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by Boston Architect Jan Gleysteen Architects, Inc [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Chicago Architect gordon architecture, inc. [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Chicago Kitchen And Bath Rebekah Zaveloff

The proper way is to cut a miter for an outside corner, with the long point being the length to where you want the moulding to end (about 1/8 short of the end of the wall), then cut other piece just like you would do if turning the corner. This piece is now cut just long enough to return to the wall. It is referred to in the trade as returning a piece on itself, and is how to end all profiled material in this situation.

Usually with cover panels you will have two options: 1) A flat slab (it sounds like you'll be getting oak doors, so this would be a quarter/rift sawn oak veneer). This flat slab panel will usually be edge-banded on the front edge but can sometimes have a thicker piece of solid wood on the front edge as an upgrade. -or- 2) A panel that basically matches your doors. (It looks like your designer was recommending you not choose this option.) For larger applications, such as island/peninsula ends or refrigerator end (the cover panel on the left or right side of a refrigerator opening) this panel (if matching a traditional panel-in-frame door style such as Shaker) will usually have center stiles or rails to help support the structure of the panel and also to visually break up the panel into segments. These center stiles or rails can be strategically placed to match the height/locations of stiles and rails found elsewhere in your kitchen. An example of this might be placing a center rail (the horizontal frame member that divides the inner panel) at the same height as the upper rail on the doors on your base cabinets. This would create visual continuity. Usually the backs of peninsulas can have several center stiles (vertical dividing frame members.) Usually these center stiles are placed every 12" to 15". These panels are sometimes referred to as wainscot panels. We tend to recommend to customers that these cover panels get sized so that their front edges sit flush with the fronts of your doors and drawer fronts. Sometimes people will have their cover panels on upper cabinets drop an inch or two below the frame of the cabinet so that they can fit light rail molding between the two cover panels and below the cabinet box (this would be in lieu of cutting your light rail molding to have mitered returns back to the wall.)

In my personal experience, I think it looks better when the shoe molding is cut at 90 degrees to align flush with the plinths and radiators. It gives a cleaner and more seamless finish. However, I'm not an expert, so it's always a good idea to consult with a professional or the flooring company to get their opinion. By the way, when I faced a similar issue, I found a great solution using skirting boards from a reliable skirting board company. It may help you!