Range Hood installed but it'sblowing not sucking air.
NEWKITCHENPLEASE
13 years ago
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weissman
13 years agopricepal
13 years agoRelated Discussions
MUA - Make up air for range hood (cross post)
Comments (5)Scott, just to elaborate on the concern I mentioned in the KF thread - that fan is rated 2,000 CFM, I see you've sized the MUA ducting accordingly, so you must be planning to use all of that flow. A 14 inch duct is about 1 sq foot, means at 2,000 CFM air will be moving through the MUA duct at 2,000 ft/min or 33 ft/sec. That seems very high, maybe too high to be realistic for passive airflow. There will be plenty of friction resistance in that 1 sq foot ductwork, and there are plenty of other ways air can flow into the kitchen through 18 sq foot openings (the doors to the kitchen), so why are you confident you'll pull air from the passive MUA rather than from the rest of the house? Suppose you do get that much airflow through the MUA duct, say with a fan. That is 2,000 CFM entering the space under the range at initially 33 ft/sec. If the space is 6" high by 48" wide i.e. that is 2 sq feet, so you can figure the air has to exit at 16 ft/sec, even if you use baffles to slow down the direct blast. That might ''blow your socks off'' or at least give you frost-bitten toes. And, will air exiting from the under-range space at that velocity and in a horizontal direction, will it really turn sharply to head up into the vent hood? Perhaps it will simply spread a frigid floor-level layer of air throughout the kitchen, while warm room air gets sucked out the vent hood. 2,000 cubic feet per minute of it. Finally, the lesson I got from that article I linked you to, in the other thread, is that turbulence and cross-flow make vent hoods less effective. That is, I think, why the article says to introduce MUA from various locations including some far away from the vent hood. So you get a smooth airflow into the hood. That's something to think about too. I imagine that fan won't actually flow 2,000 CFM in a real world vent hood, so these numbers are a worst-case, you'd recalculate using realistic outflow rate - but anyway you see my concerns....See MoreMUA - Make up air for range hood
Comments (19)I think that the OP is on the right track. The make-up air should be as close to the appliance as reasonably possible. That is the way MUA should work for other combustion appliances like water heaters, furnaces, boilers and fireplaces. You don't want unnecessary air changes in the rest of the house or even in the rest of the kitchen just to remove smoke, combustion gas and aerosols from the cook surface. That is just wrong-minded. Opening a window or door is not acceptable because it is too dependent on which way the wind is blowing at that moment. In laboratory design, a number of years ago, the design of fume hoods took a major turn. They used to just suck ambient interior air, a lot of it, up the stack. 20-30 years ago, for a spell, they just started incorporating raw MUA into the hood design. When working in those wonders you are definitely aware of the outside weather because outside air is moving directly over the person working in front of the sash and everything in the hood was exposed to outdoor air conditions. It was a big energy savings, but not so good for the laboratory scientists and their work in some cases. Now there are other solutions. If you are having trouble envisioning what a fume hood looks like, just google it. You will get lots of hits. I sometimes wish I had one at home for cutting onions ;-) Rather than putting the MUA far away from the range it should be as close to the range as possible. The heck with MUA under the range. From my point of view, a lab guy, the most efficient way to build a MUA system would be for the range manufacturers to incorporate MUA into the range design like those now-outdated fume hoods. MUA should probably be supplied all the way around the perimeter of the horizontal surface. As a cook, I can say that I would not want it to be a simple opening around the range surface because that would be a maintenance nightmare. I expect that it might be best located somewhat lower than the horizontal surface in a way that it is easy to clean and does not get spilled into. A system like that would make for a comfortable cook and energy efficiency. The drawbacks of the now-outdated fume hood designs really would not apply to a range/hood system. In those, what you were working on could be very toxic and the process temperature-sensitive. In the case of a kitchen, the design can be a little more loose as far as allowing trace "fumes" from the stove to escape. What you are working on is not temperature-sensitive in the same way as a laboratory procedure....See MoreMy over the range microwave doesn't suck
Comments (34)Add me to the list of frustrated OTR microwave owners. I had to laugh/wince when I read the above comment by a fellow GE owner that theirs "doesnt even have enough bottom suction to hold a piece of paper up against the bottom intake vents," because that's exactly the experiment I've done. Mine is set to vent to the outside too (in a condo) rather than recirculate, which is ultimately just a giant waste of the cabinet above my microwave. Mine's a GE Profile PVM9195SFSS with a 400 CFM blower and a "Boost" mode. Boiling a pot of water results in nearly all of the steam going straight up, with some of it condensing on the front of the microwave and the rest going toward the ceiling. A friend of mine with a GE had her front control panel go out, and the technician said that's a common problem due to...yep, you guessed it. Condensation. For a truly miserable experience, anything seasoned with a little oil on a skillet spreads noxious fumes throughout my condo. The whole place stays hazy for half an hour or more. One trick I've learned that helps just a little bit is to open the microwave door when venting. More steam gets sucked INTO the microwave and then up and out than ever gets sucked up from the underside. I have an extended warranty, and I've thought about calling a repair technician, but based on what you all have said, that sounds like a waste. When I had a small dishwasher issue, the technician ended up doing more damage the first time than he fixed, so I'm wary....See MoreIf you have a range hood with 400CFM+, do you have a make up air kit?
Comments (8)Hello with an update: So, I contacted many HVAC companies and it was a hassle to even get them to understand what I wanted. Most have never even heard about Make up air... The company that serves our HVAC unit sent someone and gave us an estimate of $1500.00 to do the make up air through the HVAC system (but they were upfront they had never done this before and actually took a while to do their research into Fairfax code, etc..). I had another HVAC contractor give me the same quote. I kept looking (with no luck) and then I had the idea of calling Bray and Scarf (sp?) to ask them for a recommendation, since I am pretty sure they sell this kind of hood. They told me to call R.A. Dobson (heating, ac and plumbing) and they came over. They wanted to do something simpler, without involving the HVAC unit. George (their guy) said he didn't think the HVAC could support and work efficiently with the addition of the make up air damper. He gave me a quote of $1400.00. At this point, I have decided to just have my contractor do the simple version of it, without involving the HVAC unit and he is charging me $1200.00. I went with him because his price includes everything, including fixing the walls, the roof part, etc. The other companies don't fix dry wall or deal with the roof part. But yeah, if I had known it was so complicated and expensive would have gone down to a 300 CFM hood....See Moreweedmeister
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