Cost to Build Jack Arnold Cottage
mdfacc
14 years ago
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robin0919
14 years agobigkahuna
14 years agoRelated Discussions
costs of raising a house up? (long island, NY)
Comments (3)I definitely agree with doing research on the location. Check FEMA Flood maps and get an actual flood history of the house and the area. A couple of factors that will determine the cost, are the foundation type and how high you want/need to go up as well as, if you would have to bring the house up to "New" codes, since you are raising it. Is it pier and beam or slab on grade? In southeast Texas, right now the going rate for elevating a 2200 sq ft Âpier and beamÂ, up ~5Â, would cost about 45K. The going rate for the same sq ft, but Âslab on gradeÂ, is a minimum of 80K. I only know this because we are going thru this right now. There may be other factors as well, but for our area, with Heavy Clay soil, using 10 deep, 42" bell bottom piers, this is what we (us and our neighbors) have been quoted. Our house was built in 1933. We purchased it in 2000. At that time, we were in flood zone 'X', I think that is similar to being in a 500 year flood plain. In 2007, the FEMA flood maps changed and we were re-zoned into zone 'AE'. Our house was 'Grandfathered', so we were still able to get flood insurance and be in compliance. Then September 13th 2009 came and so did hurricane Ike. Our house had never flooded before, but we got about 3' of water from the surge. Our house was deemed 'Substantially Damaged' by our city, which NFIP defines as "when a structure sustains damage from flood, fire or any natural or human origin and the cost of restoring the structure to its pre-damage condition equals or exceeds 50 percent of the buildingÂs pre-damage market value". Having been deemed Substantially Damaged, put us in a very precarious situation. We can not just Ârepair the house. We have to elevate the house at or above the Mean Base Flood Elevation (MBFE). Our MBFE is 12Â, the current elevation of our lowest floor is 7Â, which means we would have to raise a minimum of 5Â. Then, In addition to raising the house, we would have to bring a 1933 structure up to 2009 codes, which also include regs for 120 mph winds, Energy STar and several others. Our house is pier and beam, built in 1933 and had 3 additions added thru the years and each addition is a different elevation. Initially we were given rough estimates of 30-45K, but once we got an actual estimate, it was going to be > 90K just to elevate, because of the different elevations of the house. We thought that was absurd, so we got several other contractors to come out and they all said the same thing. If a house is on pier and beam it is supposed to be easier to raise; but ours was a unique case. We will actually be rebuilding instead of repairing. Sorry for rambling, but I hope this helps....See MoreIt's September- How is your build progressing?
Comments (116)Thanks, guys! The beams will span the ceiling, actually, going up from stone column to the long beam that will run the peak of the ceiling, then down the other side of the ceiling to the corresponding stone column. I think we'll just do that in the two places we have columns facing each other. Gets too busy, otherwise. While we're still debating the costs of real wood to panel the ceiling vs. installing engineered hardwood flooring up there, the beams will be fake - most likely from fauxwoodbeams.com . My parents used them, and it's amazing how beautiful they are! nutherokie, it's funny that you asked about interior doors - that's my Waterloo right now! In fact, I just posted a question about options I'm considering here on the Building forum. I wondered if I should cross-post to the Decorating forum? It's a tough call, because anything contemporary is really expensive if it comes ready to install. We're debating ordering birch slab doors, and having our trim carpenter and painter work together to get a recessed dark-stained panel look, w/stick trim in a lighter color. There's a link in the post that sorta illustrates what I'm trying to door, but right now houzz.com is my best friend for interior doors and trim ideas! I can't wait to see the cabinets: we're ordering true European slab doors from a guy in Arkansas, because no one around here has the proper equipment to build a solid wood, truly frameless cabinet door. In fact, I had to talk my cabinet guy into building frameless AT ALL - since the doors are being ordered and adding to the cost, we'll only use them in the kitchen and around the tv in the great room. They're really all one room, so I want to be consistent. But I'm ordering my oldest son's bath vanity online, we're on-site building a more cottage style for my younger son, and I have NO CLUE what kind of cabinetry we'll have in the master! When we start installing cabinets, I've got to post some pics of the ones we lost from the last house - they were so completely customized to me and my DH, we didn't even have the same countertops, door styles, or mirror frames. Just all the same wood matched, and it was stunning. I miss the cabinetry, but I do NOT miss the all-slate floor/tub deck/shower/etc. from that bathroom. Never again w/the natural slate. Here is a link that might be useful: Gotta do it: old cabinets that I loved...See MoreReplacing Foundation on Shed/Cottage
Comments (7)I don't think you need a house moving company, since they focus on moving a house from one place to another. Assuming you want to jack up the house and replace the foundation, and then set it back down, you need a general contractor with experience in jacking up a building in place. The length and size of the beams required to raise a 25x25 foot house puts it out of the do-it-yourself category. I've seen it done on some of the home shows and it requires heavy equipment to move the beams and get them under the house. If the underlying concrete footing is solid, it may also be possible to replace the rotting 6x6 beams a section at a time and only raise the building up enough for clearance to get the 6x6's in and out. However, that will not help with getting space for plumbing. It also won't be fun crawling around at foundation level replacing each section of wood. 6" wide seems small for a perimeter foundation so i would think they would be doubled up to give at least 12" width to set the floor joists. 25 feet is also a wide span for a shed floor, so there should also be a beam or supports to hold up the middle, or the joists should be appropriately sized to span that width. Make sure you have fully evaluated how this shed was built. Bruce...See MoreBuilding in Maine - basement, slab, or crawlspace?
Comments (27)"Basements Vs slabs", Practically all basements have slabs and most of them have plumbing underneath, same for 99.99% of commercial buildings. Not building a slab (or basement) for plumbing fears is typical for DIY types unfamiliar with concrete work. Designed and built right, there should be no reason to tear up the concrete in one's lifetime. If it does need to be redone, it's still light construction and not a problem for professional contractors. Building a basement or crawlspace below variable water tables can be appropriate if there is enough topography to daylight the drainage. Relying on pumps is a recipe for eventual failure. The wetter the site, the bigger the concern. Daylighted drainage that works by gravity, should be designed well, with plenty of clean gravel, silt protection and cleanouts. If your builder or grader shows up with corrugated, single wall PE, better call in an experienced civil engineer. It sounds like your lot is ideal for a stemwall slab, basically a crawlspace filled with compacted fill or better yet clean gravel and topped with a slab. This elevates the slab and provides gravity proven drainage below. Worthy's FPSF suggestion is also worth a look if your lot is really that flat. Slabs have better building science fundamentals being a well defined boundary (drainage, air barrier, insulation) between the elements and living space. Crawls are more confused. Vented crawlspaces in humid climates (east of MS) should be illegal, and if you decide to go unvented, ensure the entire crawl floor slopes to a daylighted drain. With a good design team, forced-air ductwork does not have to go in a basement, crawlspace or attic....See Moreathensmomof3
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