Hi there--So glad to have another butterfly gardener come on board! The plant you mentioned I had to look up--looks like it is from Asia and is restricted to warmer zones? What state/region are you in--that can help a lot with recommendations. There are many attractive native species of milkweeds for Monarchs--Swamp milkweed or Asclepias incarnata is a great one; it does like moist conditions, but can adapt to when it's a little drier. I usally supplement mine with water from my dehumidifier. It's planted with some Sweet Joe-Pye Weed too. So, for starters, native milkweeds are good--they will come back year after. But planting what you have now won't hurt anything since it won't survive your winters. I would wait until after frost to put out your plant, and maybe start the seeds indoors in a month or so if you have a situation to start seeds indoors. You'll want to have some nectar plants to feed the adult butterflies--good ones to have are species of Coneflowers (echinaceas), Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia species), eupatoriums (Bonesets, Joe Pye Weeds), native asters and goldenrods for the very important fall nectar. It seems many areas in the U.S. have some relatives of these plants. If Butterfly Bush is not invasive in your area, that is also another sure magnet for butterflies. Annuals that seem to be universally loved are zinnias (single flowered variety), Mexican Sunflowers, Verbena bonariensis. These are easy to grow from seed, and will definitely bring in butterflies and other pollinators. Thank you for sharing your land with the important animals. Please let us know if you have any more questions. I'm linking to a blog I keep for my local chapter of Wild Ones, an organization devoted to native plants because of all the good they do. I've written a little bit of some of our favorite plants for this area--there may be some overlap for you. There might be a Wild Ones chapter in your area which is a great resource--connecting you to people with your interest and knowledge about where and what to plant. I applaud your decision to start small--keep it simple. That way it's not overwhelming. Even if you just planted milkweed and pollinator friendly annuals, that is a huge start. Best to you! Here is a link that might be useful: Garden friendly native plants

This is what the spec sheet states about the water supply line: "IMPORTANT: Water supply on the wall is required at 3-3/4" or 9" from centerline of the toilet (see rough-in). First suggested position is hidden behind the toilet. The geometry of the toilet gives space for this installation. The second suggested position is next to the toilet. Between these two positions, the space for the supply between wall and toilet is limited to 3-1/4". In this case, check your supply and hose dimensions." I thought the multiple images on the web page were helpful in getting a "feel" for the look of the toilet. It is different isn't it. I think skirted toilets and all in one toilets, at least for me, take a bit of getting used to. Regarding skirting making it easier to clean, this toilet added complexity to that process with all the molding and ends and outs of the vertical parts :)

Thank you Mentha. She gave some of the asparagus fern to another coworker, I swear I see a root on the cutting he is trying to water root. Ferns in general arent going to take by cutting I take it? I should have known better, just have not gotten into growing ferns. Yet. ;)

Jannicone brings up a good point. The interior of the fridge is more important than the exterior. I have a 30" built-in all fridge column. On the shelves above where a bottom freezer would be, I can store far more than will fit in some people's 36" counter depth (which is a little deeper than built-in as well). It's not only what will fit, but how you can customize the interior to fit what you want to fit where you want to fit it. I have the bottom shelf low for short things like jam jars, the next shelf higher for cantaloupes, pickle jars, etc., the shoulder height shelf for tall things like wine bottles, and anything else that's bulky, and the top shelf short because the top of my fridge is very cold. Yoghurt and cheese mostly go up there. One thing that makes the shelves so spacious is that the door bins are narrow. They're great for condiments and sauces. Since the door is the warmest part of the fridge, it's a poor place for milk, even though a lot of people do that. I have a flat pack drawer, which I love, and a full width butter box on the door, which I keep lower (warmer) and use the top of as a shelf. I don't have a lot of the single use contraptions like a hanging horizontal soda bottle cradle or fitted egg compartment. Those take up a lot of space! So, make sure you like the interior of your looks fridge and that it'll fit the stuff you really want to keep in the kitchen!