Mildew under the shower caulk, how to prevent
linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
17 years ago
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donnapc2
17 years agolinnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Grout, caulk, silicone questions for our resident shower experts
Comments (5)There will be a bit of ambiguity in my answers...because there's no true right or wrong way. But here I go anyway: 1. Is the decision to go with epoxy or non-epoxy grout based primarily on resistance to mold and/or staining or is one type better than the other as far as preventing water penetration? Epoxy grout will allow less water penetration than a cement-based grout. Being non-porous, it'll also be less liable to staining. I consider epoxy to be overkill in residential showers, unless you're into dying your hair in the shower, etc. One other thing, you have a kerdi shower. That will limit water penetration, so it's sort of one more reason that epoxy could be considered overkill. 2. If we don't go with an epoxy grout in the shower, would the Polyblend grout used on the floor be suitable or would you recommend something different? Polyblend or any other manufacturer's cement based grouts would be fine. I use product from several manufacturers. Some people are preferential to just one manufacturer. 3. I think I'm confusing "caulk" and "silicone"... Are they used in the same applications? If not, what is the difference? Think of silicon as a type of caulk. There are, in general, three types of caulk typically used in residential shower construction; latex, siliconized-latex, and silicon. Latex is easy to work with, but the least durable and the most prone to mold and mildew staining. Silicon is the most difficult to work with, but has the best water-repellent capabilities. Siliconized-latex is a hybrid, it's in between the other two. In a well-built shower, any of the three could work fine, though I usually use caulks with some silicone in them, either S-L or 100% silicon. Look for a caulk that is color and texture matched to your grout, that way the caulk will look like your grout. Some 100% silicon's are only offered in color-match, but not texture. Since you mentioned Polyblend, here's a link to Custom's Color Matched Caulk. 4. Is caulk and/or silicone necessary in a Kerdi shower? I have nightmares about mold forming on my caulk (or silicone?) and having to tear it all out. The only proper way to avoid caulk completely is to do a floated mud shower with reinforced corners. Other than that, properly pitched surfaces, proper ventilation, and 100% silicon caulk will give you the best chance. 5. If we do caulk/silicone, I've heard that it should be done at every change of plane. Would this include areas that would not be taking a direct hit with water or having standing water on them? Correct. In lightweight shower construction (tile backer board over wood framing, for example), adjacent surfaces can move independently of one another. Caulk will flex. Grout could crack. Now you have a Kerdi shower, that works in your favor, as water can only penetrate to the membrane. But in general, yes, for lightweight construction, caulk all changes in plane. 6. Specifically which product would you recommend? A caulk that is color and possibly texture (sanded or unsanded) matched to your grout. A caulk that has some silicon in it. So the brand of caulk could be related to the brand of grout used if your goal is to color match. 7. Although our tile is porcelain, we are using a travertine base molding that has many nooks and crannies that will need to be filled. I understand that they get filled in by grout. This base molding is lighter that our wall and floor tiles and the matching grout that we're using there. Can I use a lighter grout for just the base moldings? Yes, you can change grout colors within the wall itself. 8. Finally, would you recommend sealing everything once it is done? Or just sealing the travertine pieces? I'd just seal the travertine. Porcelain is already non-porous. Sealing grout can be an adventure within itself. Regardless, use a penetrating, vapor-permeable sealer....See MoreMold on shower grout and caulk
Comments (11)50% white vinegar/water in a spray bottle. I used to clean my bah weekly with Comet. Four times a year, at least, I would go over the grout and caulk with bleach gel and a scrub brush. I usually use vinegar and/or Borax for most other cleaning in the home but was stuck on Comet in the bath. One day I was fretting over needing to get more gel bleach for the molding grout lines and decided to spray down the tile surround with the diluted vinegar. No scrubbing, just sprayed and walked away. A little later I noticed the grout looked less mold speckled.. The next day, only the caulk showed some lingering mold. Since then I have switched to just Borax and vinegar to clean the tub itself before spraying down the tile surround with diluted vinegar. In the warmer months, I sometimes give the tile a quick vinegar spray after my showers as our bathroom is windowless....See MoreHelp with mildew at tub/shower joint with tile
Comments (8)Actually, he is pretty good about running the fan in his bathroom. He is the one who noticed water running back from the tub towards the tile and pooling. That's what's making me wonder if the tile guy or his assistant stepped up on the edge to do the top part of the tile and might have pushed down that edge. I believe the tub is porcelain over cast iron. I am planning on doing another super cleaning and recaulking this week while they are out from school and it will be easier for him to use our bathroom or his brothers to shower for a couple of days so we can make sure it's good and dry. After that, I just don't know what else to do other than rip out the whole thing. Can anyone tell me if we could pull the tub and not have to retile the whole thing or would that be a bad idea even if we could?...See Morebest caulk for fiberglass shower surrounds
Comments (7)Personally, when I apply most caulks, I use my index finger to "tool" it. Kind of slide my finger along the bead. This tends to push the caulk into the joint, and create a better seal with the two sides of the joint. And you end up with a kind of concave beveled look to the joint, as opposed to the convex bead that you get if you just apply it and don't touch after that. Have paper towels handy to wipe off the excess silicone caulk that will be on your index finger (*smile*). I also like silicone caulk that's labeled for "tub and tile" (has mold/mildewicide in it) a lot better than acrylic latex, since it flexes, like GE Silicone II Kitchen and Bath (with BioSeal). Yes, when you renew it, you'll have to remove the previous caulking, but it lasts a lot longer in my experience, adheres better, flexes, stays flexible, etc. -Roger...See Morebmmalone
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linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)Original Author