I have beem reading this forum for a year now, especially the craftman posts and just had to join. I own a GT 5000 and have used it for a year. Cheesy is a good word for craftman engineering. My 48" deck loads up faster than any deck I have ever used, not to mention how dang heavy the deck is to move out and clean! The bagger has such a narrow throat that even dry grass plugs it up. It has become a completely useless accessory that I never use, too much frustration. One of the most useless saftey features, is the reverse key position, you must have your key in that position to mow backwards. What's the point? And the steering linkage is so poor, my old "73" Murray tracked a straighter line. Is this craftman "bashing" Nope, this is a sad commentary on Corporate culture cheapening products, with branded names and increasing profit margins at the expense of consumers. Not all companies are following this line and that's why there is a quality spread in the market place. I'm responsible for being stupid and buying a sub-standard machine based on price, and that's the only reason these machines sell. This spring I will purchase a "quality lawn tractor". and I can't wait to dump the Crapman!!

What you're proposing is fine (other than the fact that it is most likely technically illegal for you to do this not being licensed). Depending on whether this is just a switch loop, you may also be able to make the change at the receptacle. Did he check to see if the receptacle is split where one of the two sockets is switched and one is not?

The ground wire from the source was wrapped around the ground wires from the lights and they were left loose in the box. Left loose? Without a wirenut on them? Wires should never be 'left loose'. All ground wires from all cables should be connected together under a wirenut and one pigtail should go to the metal box and another pigtail should go to the switch (if it has a ground screw). Basically, everything should be grounded securely.

we got a new starter and new battery. the motor cranks and starts now. but, if you do not push in clutch pedal and than turn the key, the fuse blows. which seems odd. last winter we replaced trans with used trans and put in fresh fleet farm "hydro trans oil" but it would slip after 10min. so we drained "hydro" oil and put in 20-50 oil which so many say is the trick. maybe we should break down and buy some peerless oil for $18?