Here's the parts breakdown http://www.odref.com/peerless/915-SERIES/915-915-020.PDF If you chose to change lube, the bentonite would need to be eradicated I'd think.

Thanks for the response. Sorry I didn't mention that is the new spring in the photo. The problem is that I can't get the leverage to load up the spring to hook it under that shaft. I don't know if I need to slide the shaft out of the bracket that the left arrow points to and try to get it on that way, or if there is another way it should be done.

I see nothing from you in the gallery. Post a link?

Count me in as definately pitchfork! How old is your garden fork? There probably is not a pin on your garden fork (you would notice it) forks that need a pin would have a socket attached to the tines for the handle (forged and welded into one piece). The more modern method (used from longer than just a few of us have been around until today) uses a tang forced into a hole in a wooden handle that is constrained/reinforced by a steel ferule. If you have a newer garden fork, it might just be easier and quicker to buy a new one. Replacement handles will have a cost similar to inexpensive tools. If you have a fork that is worth a new handle - pay attention to the grain of the handle. Replacement handles (in general) in my observation are nicer than original stock (it has become pretty 'old school' to replace tool handles). The grain of an ideal replacement handle would IMHO have 'lines' (growth rings) that would run from top to bottom while laying the fork on the ground. Close to that is acceptable, but at a certain point totally horizontal grain is better ( as long as there is little twisting of the grain in the handle - too much twisting of the grain makes the handle unacceptable no matter what). If you have decided to fit a replacement handle, the hole in the end of your new handle will most likely be too small to suit. How could you adjust the fit if it was not? You will have to bore it out with a bit that is the smallest dimension of your tang ( say that your tang was 1/2" x 5/8" , you would use a 1/2" bit to bore the hole to the max depth of the tang. After that you would use small wood rasps to adjust the fit slowly or hope to get an acceptable fit by using a larger diameter drill bit. Do not try to fit your fork up to the hilt, allow for 1/2" to 3/4" for future adjustment if needed. Turning a compost pile with a garden fork is much harder than with a pitch fork. The tines of a pitch fork are designed to penetrate loose material with little effort - garden fork tines are for engaging the earth with less effort and comparable results to a garden spade - you will notice the difference between the two when turning a compost pile. I have a number of pitch forks - but I end up using a three tined one for very coarse material and a six tined one for almost everything else. For finer material I use a square shovel. It is quite a bit less effort to use a tool that has less weight to do the same job. Best of luck!