I bought a 2006 Exmark Lazer Z 52" Zero Turn in 2009 from a commercial landscaper/mower with a 23 HP Kawasawki engine.. The first thing I did with it was take it to a dealer who looked it over. He replaced the two spark plugs, the blades and one spindle. I also assumed that he checked out the serial number for me. It's quite common to see these machines come off lease at three years old, but this one had been purchased. I paid $3500 and have been using it ever since to do an acre and a half. i've never had problems with the hydraulic pumps or motors except that if the fluid gets low it gives a growling whining sort of noise when going up a grade so I add a little fluid and I'm good to go. I wore out some mower deck belts till I learned not to use it to plow piles of leaves with the blades spinning. I replaced the hydraulic belt myself two years ago and the automotive type oil filter that filters the hydraulic fluid a few times . It's had a another blade spindle, a starter solenoid 2 years ago and a starter motor last year. Not bad for a 15 year old machine. i can't remember a single problem with broken parts for the frame, the deck etc. I did all the maintenance myself till I got too old to figure out how to get at the starter motor bolts. My only complaint is that I don't think the deck is wide enough because if it were wider it would go around the three foot diameter fencing I have up around new fruit trees to keep the deer off them. They had a 60" deck but it wasn't available with a bagger; as I remember. I know you're going to question buying used but perhaps a used machine like mine is better than those you're criticizing here. I'd suggest if you look at one to look at the broken parts. Things like the wheels on the mower deck, the casters for the front wheels. If they're busted off or bent you get an idea how they respected their machine.

The puck is not visible in the image. The puck is located behind the caliper and in front of the brake disc. You will see the puck after you remove the caliper. Yes, it seems odd indeed. I have mused over this specific situation and I conclude that the unique complaint can only be due to a couple of circumstances. The first one I have already outlined previously in your other thread. The second scenario would be that the entire frame of the tractor is being reshaped during turns because of looseness in frame rivets, or bolts, or screws.......as the case may be. This hypothetical frame reshaping could probably conspire to LENGTHEN the effective brake rod travel when making a left turn (less brake power)......and SHORTEN the effective brake rod travel when making right turns (more brake power). Because there is a "fine line" difference between NO BRAKES and GOOD BRAKES on this mechanical type of disc brake anyhow, just a little difference in the effective length of the brake rod would have a profound overall effect on the stopping power. Study carefully how the frame is put together. Look closely for signs of dry, powdery rust around all the bolts (or whatever is used) that hold the frame together. You might need to wipe around the bolt heads with a clean dry paper towel and then look at the towel to determine if there is any rust (which implies a loose fit condition).

Some more rules: 3.1: Don't buy for the brand alone, but know the brand. Know that if you're buying a Troy-Bilt, Yard Man, White, Yard Machine, Bolens, or Cub Cadet you're buying an MTD, with very few differences between the brands. A Craftsman, Poulan or Husqvarna are all made by Husqvarna Group. John Deeres are all John Deeres, but the LA series is the entry level, with little in common with the X300 series, and nothing but the color in common with the X500 and X700 series. Toro sells a lot of professional grade products, and has a nice consumer line. Simplicity sells high end quality equipment intended for homeowner use. 4: You get what you pay for. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, and aren't concerned about durability or ease of use, spend less than $1500. If you want to keep this mower for two decades and want to enjoy using it, expect to spend twice that. 5: Consider used equipment. If you do daily searches of eBay and craigslist, you will find what you're looking for eventually; nice, used lawn equipment typically sells for less than half the retail cost new. You should be able to find a lightly used garden tractor (if you decide to tear into that new plot) for less than the cost of a new lawn tractor. 6. Don't get overly concerned with horsepower; focus on the transmission. Guys equate higher horsepower with higher productivity, quality, and general bragging rights. The manufacturers focus on big horsepower numbers to sell entry-level tractors to people who don't know any better. Bigger motors give you more cutting power for 48" decks and up, but with a 42" deck or smaller, horsepower is not something to be concerned about at all. The transmission is more important. Will you be using an aerator? Will you pull a cart? Do you want the forward-reverse ease of a hydrostatic transmission? A 20hp engine won't do anything for you if the transmission can't handle your tasks. Find out which transmission the tractor has, then research it on the manufacturer's website. Whether the tractor is green, red or orange, most are moved around by tuff torq transaxles. Here is a link that might be useful: tuff torq

Here's my story: I've spent $700 bucks for 13 years of mowing. And I've been ridin' in the saddle. I mow about an acre, two or three times a month. I let the grass get a little too tall sometimes, but these mowers have had no problem cutting it down. My first was a Craftsman 14 or a 16 hp that I paid 100 bucks for. I only bought one battery in 5 years. It was probably from the 80s or 90s. The engine was still strong but the rest was shot. Time for a new one. So, I ended up calling a guy and he said "come on by, I have one for sale." He had a Murray he wanted 200 for. But I noticed a larger yard man sitting under a tree, it was a hydraulic 18 hp Yard Man that he said needed some TLC. I asked him what it needed. He said just a "little this and that." I've heard that before! Dig? I said, does it Run?" He said yes, and after some effort we got it cranked. I bought it. I just had a feeling about it. The quality stuck out. Hydraulics will last longer. I know a little something. But It was a little risky. I knew it needed a little help under the deck. I paid $225.00 for it. But 8 years later, it!'s still running. That Kohler engine is great. It's a 1996 model. It takes a little effort to get it cranked, I use a little ether and have a process, because I don't want to kill my battery with excess cranks.? I've spent $400 over the last 8 years on it. There's a pro mechanic who has put a belt on it. and some pulleys and such under the deck, batteries. I mow my lawn in 30 to 40 minutes. That saves me an hour versus the push type. Saves my back even more. My mechanic said the Kohler engine is as good as a Honda. This was a high time machine before I got it. I can just tell. But I've only put about 100 hours on it or so. I'm trying to stretch the life out by mowing only 2, maybe 3 times a month. If I mow every week, there's no need for the ether -- but I like for my grass to grow tall before cutting -- it keeps it thicker and better looking. My neighbors have a love- hate relationship with me.