Hippy is correct, I'm talking RVs here for folks who don't wrench their own. Your Silverado has a great Allison transmission that's the gold standard, IMHO. There's a hill of difference in labor between an auto or truck and an RV with an engine in it. The Left Coast is very mountainous and it gets old fast to be on an incline pulling your boat/quads/trailer/horses at 45 and be passed by a DuraMax doing 75. And you'll wish you were getting 12 mpg pulling that horse trailer at 45. The current GMC engines are 200,000 mile designs (Sierra, Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon) and the diesels (DuraMax) are 500,000 mile designs. Teardrops will have lower height which will pay off in mileage and many nicer campsites will be an option, where the truck campers (popups and crankups excluded here) will be scraping a few branches or down in the meadow. Of course, it's easier to back up a truck camper so there's a world of options out there. I've sold a ton of GMC trucks and as a Ford man let me say they're hard to beat.

NO. I think the same way as ebse - my husband and i slog it out to make money, get no benefits for being responsible with money, just keep seeing our taxes shooting up and up as a reward for our hard work. So, I buy the best value for my money. I hate my old GE profile cook top and am waiting to get rid of it. My fridge is a sub-zero and pretty much every thing else in my kitchen is not american. BTW/ we have never owned an American car - but, our last european car was manufactured in South Carolina - so maybe that is not true, after all. I am american, but have worked for 12 years in a Japanese semi conductor company with huge operations and thousands of american employees in California. So, what is American and what is non-american anymore? This is a global economy whether we like it or not. So, I am always happy to buy the best quality for my money without any pressure to buy american. If some american companies suffer (especially in the auto sector), it is not because of our lack of support, it is because of the poor business strategies - and anyway, Congress is always there to bail them out with my tax $$$$. So, no worries, I am supporting them by working hard to pay my taxes :)

Hello, Just joined the site & at first I thought I found a site where MOST of the members that do the MAJORITY of posting where nice,courtious, and most of all KNOWELDGEABLE, yet after reading these responses I've come to the conclusion that it's just another ROMPER ROOM with a few MAIN CHILDREN that think they know it all. Below are the postings that I'm referring to : (1) "" Posted by chad_said (My Page) on Sat, Aug 25, 07 at 10:43 Well, that was a nice bit of ego stroking, but unfortunately talk of Ford flatheads and rebuildable spark plugs has absolutely no relevance to the OP's problem. As for me being a "parts thrower", I suggested a simple visual inspection of a likely problem that takes less than one minute. No parts involved. Perhaps your reading comprehension needs work as well. "" To Child # 1--AKA chad_said: You need help. Your response was at best, the response I'd expect to hear from a rookie hot-shot, (so they think), Engine designer. Unfortunately, I deal with your kind ALL DAY LONG & after 38 Yrs. in the Design phase of Automobile building I've found that when given enough rope...You'll hang yourself. This next guy (child #2) cought my attention because he ACTUALLY BELIVES everything He's saying & I hope to GOD that He gets out of the Automotive repair Business, (if he really is even in the FIeld), and pursues a career that's commensurate to his qualifications, like Toilet Bowl Cleaning. Here is THAT Childs Post.... "" Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 8:30 Easiest first, a Roll Cab is of course a tool box. Most technicians today have so much invested in their hand tools, that the biggest box at Sears would be terribly inadequate to protect them. If you look at the biggest box Sears sells, you would need three of them for my tool collection, and there would be items that still would not fit. My MATCO Rolling Tool Cabinet (Roll Cab) holds 85% of my things and if you think of it as a safe instead of just a tool box then you are looking at it the right way. In the case of professional theives my tools are still at risk, but if the local crack head tries to get them the most likely result will be them safely in the box, or a senario somewhat similar to a giant rat trap. Back to the OP. Information as given here is exactly enough for me to drive the car and start testing for what is wrong with it. While some things can be thought of as secondary needs, the OP's description leaves sufficient room to expect this problem is not just one thing wrong. Stalling at stops can be caused by a loss of fuel, spark, airflow, or a combination of such. The sluggishness he alludes to might be related to the stall, and yet it might not be. This single detail "could" be related to a fuel supply issue, but frankly there are some details that I would expect to see from the poster, that have not been disclosed yet. If he was here at my shop I would be asking some specific questions to attempt to get a clearer picture of these events. Things like weather conditions, accessory loads, vehicle drive time, details such as if highway driving or intown appear to influence the symptom. One such detail would be if it acts up in a specific area (time) from when first driven, or if mulitple restarts are required before the trouble occurs, or if in fact multiple restarts would make it not occur. These details are so important to getting the car in and fixed the first time that I cannot stress it enough. Presently there is a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer right beside me that got towed in, for a no start. If jumped it would run for a short period of time, and then stall back out. Simple fix right? The alternator was definately bad. However pulling it in the door I noticed it had very poor throttle response. After charging the battery, before replacing the alternator I tested just a little further, this thing is starving for fuel big time. I have to ask myself, why didn't the owner tell me about that? Does she think that the way this was running is only because of the alternator problem? Could she be one of the people I have encountered in the past that will act like this fuel problem was never there before the alternator failed, so it must be something that I caused and try to get it for free? There is no subtitute for proper training, tools, equipment, people, and information. It takes all of them to fix cars correctly. People can guess all they want, and like any guess occasionally they will be correct. A car I worked on recently came in with two seperate problems that caused identical symptoms. The first of the two problems was simple, secondary ignition insulation failure allowing the spark to jump to ground causing a missfire. The second problem was no so simple. A primary computer input was glitching and causing the computer to cut the injector pulse to 1/3rd of what was required to fire a cylinder. The "feel" was identical to an ignition missfire. To satisfy the customer, both of those problems had to be diagnosed and repaired. Otherwise "It still would have been doing the same thing". Oh and I almost forgot this LAUGHABLE description of his " ROLLCAB" Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 12:08 FWIW my "Tool Box" measures 48ft x 40ft x 14ft. LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL WHAT Planet is THIS guy living on ? A FORTY EIGHT x FORTY x FOURTEEN (FOOT) "rollcab" ? Like I said earlier, another ROMPER ROOM and THESE two are probably in the corner more than anyone else. Good Day to all of the REAL posters out there.

Resurrecting this thread because my situation is changed, but similar questions apply. I'm selling the "main house" and moving full time to my vacation house. Last year I installed a 120 volt GFCI receptacle nearer my preferred parking area (snow kept sliding off my roof onto the original space!); this is on a dedicated 20A circuit. I'm now thinking about putting in a carport, which will be separated from the house by about 20 feet, so I will run underground cable from the house to the carport. I'll probably put in a sub panel and enough capacity to have two EVs. What should I run to have two at least level 2 chargers, as well as 110 volts for other purposes? Should I wire for a Tesla Supercharger? What would I need?. Regarding usage, my PHEV, when fully charged overnight, displays between 12 miles and 40 miles available on battery, depending on many things, including temperature and, perhaps, recent usage.