I've had this lawnmower now for about 2 years ie, 2 grass cutting seasons. The first week I had it, the drive belt kept coming off. I kept putting it back on and it eventually stayed on with no problems. Never did figure out why it kept coming off. At the start of the second season, the roto-stop lever stopped functioning. I could not keep the blades turning upon release of the lever. So I had to bungie cord the lever in the forward position to keep em' turning. It is more difficult to start now because the blades are engaged all the time. I just ordered the roto stop control assembly for $30.00. I have also experienced the lack of seals at the bagging connection area. I haven't experience a great muching mower yet and this one still does not qualify. There are still grass trails occuring. The fancy 2 bladed system does not impress me, just harder to sharpen. The motor is great. I haven't had any problems at all. I give the motor 5 out of 5 and the rest 2.5 out of 5. This is an expensive average mower. I expected better for the money. I believe my next mower will be a lawnboy. I thought Honda was a better mower, it isn't. I had the used lawnboy I bought before the Honda for 15 years and it ran flawlessly until it gave up and totally died one day. GS

I went through all of these steps, even replaced the carburetor. I had to order two packages of the gasket kits to get all of the different I needed. I also replaced the two long bolts with threaded rods that were approximately 4" long (I added lock tight on the engine side) then I could check each part as I put it on. It is maddening to know you did everything and it starts up and mows then it won't start at all. It also seems to lose power as you mow. The solution (for me): The last thing I did was replace the fuel line. No gas coming out of the tank. What!?. I opened the gas cap and the gas shot out. I left the cap a little loose and mowed the yard. Staring and stopping with no issues and lots of power! Lawn is mowed. Now I'm gong to find out how the tank is vented so I can fix that issue.

The A/C relay on your Honda, like most vehicles today, is computer controlled. The relay will have electrical power at two terminals of the relay with the key on and power at only one terminal with the key off. If there is no electrical power present at the relay, then you have to inspect the fuses. There are two fuses for the relay. One can be found in the under dash fuse panel. It will be a 7.5 amp fuse and will be located in position #6 of the fuse panel labeled A/C clutch relay/cooling fan relay. The other fuse is located in the under hood relay and fuse box. This is a 15 amp fuse and will be in position # 34 and labeled condenser/fan. If both fuses are good and there is electrical power to two of the terminals at the A/C compressor clutch relay, then you have a control problem. It could be as simple as a bad relay or the A/C system is low in charge. The A/C system has a pressure switch that stops the operation of the A/C compressor if the charge of refrigerant in the system becomes inadequate, too low. This is done to prevent damage to the compressor. To diagnose a control problem will require more specialized equipment, higher level of training and knowledge for diagnosis. At this point I would suggest that you involve a repair facility to perform this diagnosis.

There were some issues with some early-production 2013 Accord navigation systems. But most 2013s function normally. All Accords have an 8" screen that Honda calls the i-MID (intelligent Multi-Information Display) mounted in the center of the dash. It is the display for the Rearview Camera, trip computer, Bluetooth hands-free phone setup and settings, displays incoming text messages and several other minor features. On models with Navigation, it is also the NAV display screen and interface. There is a separate, smaller touch screen directly below the i-MID that handles all audio system funcitons. The A/C system is operated using actual buttons that are located below the audio control display. While the Accord's Navigation is perfectly functional, reliable and intuitive to use, I have one major issue with it- the price! Navigation costs $2000 on the 2013 and $1775 on the 2014. In comparable GM, Ford, Nissan, Mazda and Toyota sedans, adding Navigation only costs $560 to $795. Honda's NAV is ridiculously overpriced, costing up to 3x what it does in other mid-size sedans! Personally, that irks me. (Note- if you haven't considered the 2014 Mazda6, you owe it to yourself to do so before you make a final purchase decision!) The other issue I have with the Accord is the Honda Lane Watch feature. A tiny camera is mounted on the passenger side mirror and, when you activate your right turn signal, the i-MID screen shows a 4x larger area of the lane/area to your right. While itâÂÂs better than just having the mirror alone, it isnâÂÂt nearly as useful as the Blind Spot Monitor available on many other mid-size sedans. I have a 2012 Mazda CX-9 SUV and it has a Blind Spot Monitor (BSM) system. Most BSMs use sensors mounted in/under each corner of the rear bumper. When a vehicle is detected within the âÂÂblind spotâ range being monitored, a yellow warning symbol appears on the outside mirror on that side of the car. If you signal a lane change while a car is detected in the blind spot, a warning alarm sounds and a red warning light flashes in the instrument panel. The benefit of a BSM is that it lets you know if a vehicle is in the blind spot on either side at all times, so youâÂÂre aware of your surroundings. If you still signal a lane change, it alerts you with both audible and visual alarms. Here is a link that might be useful: 2014 Mazda6