Yeah, I was confused by the first couple posts in this thread until I realized that someone had hijacked a thread from 2008. We replaced several incandescent recessed lights with LED retrofits where the LED gets power by screwing into the E26 base for the old incandescent. Sadly, you probably don't have that option due to the type of connectors for your bulb. However, you might search for LED retrofit and see if there is something that works with your "socket" and fits the size of your opening. Otherwise, just replace all the recessed lighting cans with LED. As dancingsams says, there are a lot of options. You will have to use dimmable LED lights and upgrade your switch to an LED capable dimmer. They work pretty well. Not as great as incandescents, but pretty good. Make sure you get the best color temperature for your situation and preferences.

We replaced an old Casablanca ceiling fan with a new one from the same company. The "down light" has never been nearly as bright as the 100 watts listed in the fan's specifications. Recently, the light quit working altogether. Casablanca ultimately recommended that we replace the "receiver module" which cost $50. It didn't correct the problem so I went to Casablanca's website and got a schematic wiring diagram. Surprisingly, an electrical element they call a "NO BYPASS ASSEMBLY" which is, in reality a VOLTAGE LIMITER which keeps the 100watt lamp at a maximum output of 40watts! This is evidently a mandated component by the federal government to reduce electricity consumption ( just like low flow toilets). I made a total of three calls to Casablanca and the issue of this part being a problem was NEVER brought up. For our fan, the removal of this part was easy since it's installed with connectors and the wires to it have to just be connected directly to the wiring which goes to the downlight. Now, we have a true 100watt downlight. Screw Casablanca for not being honest with their customers about what this component really is and what it does. And screw the government for their unwanted involvement.

"Your cans should be 18-30" away from the upper cabinets (for 12' upper and 24" base cabinets). This rules applies for any walls they maybe near by, as well, if you want to avoid glare. Closer than 18", they start generating glare. Further than 30", your head will be between the light and the counter and you will have a shadow on the counter." I just thought I would mention that I got different advise than pinar about the spacing of the recessed lights from the upper cabinets. My kitchen installer specified that the electrician install them as close to the upper cabinets molding as possible . I asked him to move them out from the upper moldings just a few inches for aesthetic reasons and they work very well that way. If they were 18-30" beyond the upper cabinets, they would be behind me when I stood at the counter and not provide good lighting over the counter. I wonder if pinar, you might have meant 24-30 from the wall? Then they would still light the counter you are working at which generally extends 25 1/2" from the wall and backsplash. WARNIING: You have to have a dimmer that is compatible with dimmable fluorescents. I believe most, but not all, are. Check with the place you purchased the dimmer from. I know I specified I wanted to be able to use these bulbs and the lighting salesperson had to look up each dimmer to check. Some were OK and some were not. Also, you should get the correct size can for them. They only come in certain sizes, and I believe mine are 5" to fit these, not 6". Anyway, this is why I went to a lighting store for these so everything worked together properly and could use the types of bulbs I wanted. If you are not sure about your equipments compatibility certainly try replacing just one bulb first and use them for at least a day or two before investing in enough bulbs to replace all of them. I put regular incandescent bulbs in my fixtures for a couple of weeks until my R30 bulbs came and they kept tripping the circut breaker in the light and they would take turns going out for periods of time. I would hate to order a bunch of those at 8-30.00 each and find out they don't work for you. Also make sure they are returnable, first. Also, only the "new work" cans have that slider on them, and require the ceiling to be opened up. If you ask for "old work" (my electricians terms to tell the lighting store) cans, they can be installed BEFORE the cabinets but without opening up the ceiling, possibly saving a lot of labor and money in patching and repairing the ceiling. They do need to be installed in the correct spot from the beginning, though. My kitchen cabinet installer gave me a simple drawing of my cabinet layout with the exact measurements of where the CENTER center of each recessed light should be to fall exactly at the center of that upper cabinet, by how many inches from the it should be from the from the outside wall and how many inches from the wall the cabinets would be hung on. After the cabinets went in they were perfectly placed and she was very happy when she saw them. She said she has seen them poorly done before when are not placed properly and it can not easily be changed once the cabinets are in. Again, then you WOULD have to open the ceiling and do patching and everything. An expensive and messy mistake. Many people live with poorly done lights afterwards because of what is involved in fixing them. Sue

I'd rather have the higher lumens -- that's like the difference between a 40W and a 60W bulb, and three of the latter feels like it will be better in a kitchen.