too much pressure in cooling system
anggi821
16 years ago
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kalining
16 years agoanggi821
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Survey: Pressure canner cool down
Comments (8)Mirro 23 qt. 10# pressure, removed from burner as soon as time is up takes about 30 minutes, then I remove the lid, but leave sitting ajar on top for another 10. I haven't really timed it, I just know when I'm cranking out green beans, it takes about 1 1/2 hours per load. Raw pack, I have the beans in hot jars, pour boiling water in and cap: 10 minutes. Approx. 10 minutes to begin steaming, 10 to vent, 25 processing and 30 cool down. Ten "resting". Yeah, I know that's a little more than 1 1/2 hours, but there's overlap. I start filling the next batch when I set the lid ajar. Interesting question though, I'll have to do some actual timing to see if it varies by product, processing time, etc. Deanna...See MoreHelp: New Carrier System won't cool!
Comments (8)The installer came back and measured the temperature difference between return and supply. It was 80-60 = 20 degree difference. Perfect. He sealed the supply plenum-duct connections with more mastic, added a little puron (he said that the level was ok), put a few pieces of insulation back. Nothing major. I have been monitoring the AC performance this afternnon by setting the temperature at 75 degrees (outside temp 97). In 1 hour, the temp dropped from 81 to 80 on Infinity controller, but it never stopped. My analog thermostat indicates that the temp dropped from 78 to 76. It appears that it is cooling and the Infinity Controller may be reading too high a temp! I am concerned that the system never stops. What is the typical time period that AC runs before it stops? This afternoon when I raised the temp (to 82. 99 outside), the AC came on at low cooling (never went to high cooling) and ran for over an hour before finally stopped due to significant outside temp drop....See MoreCarrier Infinity Control System Static Pressure
Comments (9)Static pressure is the difference between the negative pressure (from your returns) and positive pressure ( at your supplies). This is an indication of the air-flow over the coils. These will differ as your air filter plugs up, the "tightness" of your air filter, the duct sizing. On a retrofit I'd suggest it's OK, but there should be, on your rating plate, a spec for EST. If it's within range, you're laughing. If it isn't I'd 1st consider more return air as that's the most common fault, but I'd also look at the supplies. Are they restricted (i.e. under furniture or behind?). Are the vent dampers wide open? If you've got the gauges, try removing the filter first. If that brings it into line, you can switch the fan into the next highest speed, replace the filter and rock on....See MoreMoved Water Line and Now Have Too Much Pressure
Comments (4)We've bought a pressure reducing valve. Plumber will be here this week. We're on a community well in the country. Water guy came out last week with a gauge. It read 90psi and then went up to 100. He said "in the middle of the night, your pressure is probably over 100psi" :o He measured from an outside faucet. Last summer when we had a sprinkler system installed, our pressure was 65 to 70. David, faulty pressure regulator...is that the water company's responsibility or ours? They're saying WE need to install a pressure reducing valve. The main is at the street. DH thinks we should install the valve at the house's shutoff box (I'm sorry I don't know all the correct terminology), this way the sprinkler system (between the road and house)will retain the extra pressure we've gain by moving the meter. What's everyone's thoughts on that? If I need to explain better, just lmk :) Monica...See Morejemdandy
16 years agogary__
16 years agokalining
16 years agoanggi821
16 years ago887766554433
9 years agogto3x2
8 years agoJeremy Williamson
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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