If I understand you, you were given blooming potted tulips which are now through blooming but still has green foliage. You may plant them in the garden now in a well drained spot where they won't rot from summer water and let the foliage die back as the bulb is replenished for next year. Most people do not think this worth the trouble for a tulip that will probably not bloom next year. The cost of tulip bulbs that WILL bloom is only pennies. Al

I have mountains of the things because at LAST count I have over 100 palms on my property. I wish I knew a way to shred them.A few years back my dad would cut them into small pieces for me and I used it as much and it worked great. Hes a little to frail for that now. I am hoping to start digging the bottom layer out and using some of the decayed stuff. tanya

Spectracide Weed Stop is a common broadleaf plant killer containing 2,4,D, Dicambra, and something else that does not come to mind right off. While it is not a really good product to use and while it can also kill plants you want to keep if due care in use is not observed, it is not quite as bad as some others mainly becasue the formulation is not really very strong. It is not quite as bad as maifleur makes the stuff out to be, and the manufacturer will simply tell you there is no problem. The most bestest way to control "weeds" in your lawn is to get that lawn into a good, healthy condition and that starts with a good, reliable soil test. Contact your counties office of your Colorado State University Cooperative Extension Service about having that done and also dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. which can guide you toward a good, healthy soil that will grow a good, healthy lawn that will crowd out "weed" growth so you don't need those poisons. Here is a link that might be useful: CSU CES

first ... you ALWAYS remove dead parts .. and you remove it surgically ... not chop it.. especially if you need to be on a ladder to chop it .. lol ... but the dead parts are the least of the problems with that tree .. pull back the rocks.. and show us the root flare... if its not there .. pull back the soil until you find us.. and snap a pic ... what is your native soil .. does it drain ... how did you plan tit ... did you bare root it.. to find out if roots were proper?? ... did you amend the planting hole ...??? drip irrigation is rarely proper for a tree.. you water deeply and let near dry .. before you water again .. on new transplants in my MI ... i water about once a month if there was no rain ... there is no tree that needs watering every third day or so ... is there landscape cloth under the rocks.. if so.. remove at least a 6 foot circle around the tree to allow proper movement of AIR and water in the soil ... once you do that.. you can dig 3 to 6 inch holes around the tree to FIND out about moisture at root depth ... i might also wonder about how much day heat the rock retains.. deep into the night .. when most plants get a recovery period .... again.. the dead part is the least of the trees problems ... it is incredibly stressed... it is not hungry.. fert is not a response at this time ... ken