Bill, Thanks for the speedy reply and the pictures. The tile is 4 X 4 on the diagonal, just like the 1st picture. I didn't mention it but it is already grouted. Does that change the solution? Can he remove the cut tile without damaging too many more tiles? I want to make sure I know exactly what he needs to do so he can't tell me that it's not possible. Thanks for your help. ~Trish

Hello Karen, Sorry it took me so long to find this thread. Bill left a trail of breadcrumbs though and that's helped me along. :) So, from what I see in the photos it's a textbook Bay Area "single-coat mortar installation". He's got a moisture barrier of Aqua-Bar asphalt-impregnated Kraft paper and he's used 1" galvanized chicken-wire for lathe. His float looks to be a nominal 5/8" thick at the exposed edges and he's been pretty dang clean judging from the surrounding walls, so I don't think he's a hack. Now for the not-so-nice news. I can also tell from the photos that he's got quite a bit of lippage on those walls. It may be that those large porcelain tiles are not "rectified" (re-milled at the factory for flatness and squareness)and so he's made the best out of warped materials? Ann Sacks, and many other boutique showrooms, sell beautiful tile but it isn't always a guarantee that it's also flat or square. The best test will be to lay a straightedge across the tile (front and back each)from corner to corner and from side to side. Can you see daylight between the straightedge and the tile? Does the straightedge teeter and rock? If either of these is the case, then your installer did his job. If the tiles are flat however, he's ruined some very fine material. Without a better picture of the return-walls, I can't tell you why he chose the cuts he did. It may be that he allowed the niche's dimensions to dictate his layout, rather than the other way-round? All-in-all, it's not a terrible job and grouting may shine it right up or it may make things worse? A good grout job is like **magic** though so I think in this case I'd share your concerns with the installer and emphasize how much you HOPE he can make things better with a spectacular grout job. He should take the hint and screw his wizards cap on tight for the task. Best of luck, Shaughnn

Bill, thank you for your comments and yes, it was the PEI rating that I couldn't remember. I'm looking for a rectified porcelain tile that mimics real stone in a light cream or golden color - very minimalist in overall apprearance with very low variation for it is going to be pared with Cambrian Black Antique finish countertops. I'd also like to use the porcelain from the floor on the backsplash in large tile (12 by 12 or 18 by 18 format) to put on the backsplash to help maintain the minimal appearance and having a grout line only every 12 or 18 inches. Both the counter and the backsplash would have a matte finish I've looked at the Dal and Crossville website and will try them again to see if one of their products fits our criteria. I know you have mentioned these two companies before. any other suggestions My first reaction on their sites was that their tiles had high variation and were frequently glazed and lacked through body color and were not rectified. Thanks again, jb

is it necessary to use the pre-treat cleaner or IF the grout is clean can I go straight to the colorant and still achieve the same benefits? So long as all you have left is staining, and there's no grease or anything else that would inhibit the bond of the colorant, then yes, you can go straight to the colorant. Is it true my grout will be as clean as my tiles after routine floor cleaning. It should be, yes.