The discussion reminds me again how personal these choices are. I remember a wonderful phrase from a book (by Booth Tarkington, I think) which went something like this: a mild unpleasantness for one young man may seem the sheer brink of hell to another. That's applicable here as you can see from the posts above. For some of us, a self-cleaning oven is on the list of stove "must-haves." A stove won't even be considered without it. For others, like me, it was on my list of "wanna-haves" rather than "must-haves." (IOW, I miss having a self-cleaning oven but think I can live without it). Others, such as Nunya, are completely indifferent to self-cleaning; seemingly, he wouldn't use it if he had it. I say all of this because opinions here at GW can sometimes sound like dogma -- because I think X, you should, too, and your contrary thoughts are mere subjective preferences. It has to be said that subjective preferences are important. They are none-the-less valuable for being subjective. Your own preference absolutely must be part of the process of choosing a stove. Just because I find manual oven cleaning is "not too bad" does not mean you should find it that way, too. So, hopefully, the range of opinions is taken as helping you sort out our preferences rather than as telling you what to so. There is only way to get better informed than this exchange of opinions and that is by actually cleaning an oven in a stove you are considering. But, even if you live someplace where dealer showrooms have operating stoves you can test out, do you think they'll be demonstrating that aspect anytime soon? ;>) When I bought my NXR, I really had no idea how easy or how onerous "myself-cleaning" would be. That's one of the reasons I bought it from Costco. If "myself-cleaning" turned out to a royal PITA, I could simply return the stove for a full refund and get the self-cleaning induction range that I otherwise would have purchased. So, when you go shopping, it may be helpful to be up-front with the vendors about your uncertainty on this issue and to have a back-up candidate.

Passive ventilation can only “cool” a structure to the temperature of the outside, ambient air. If the plants need cooler temperatures, then mechanical cooling will be needed. A good rule of thumb for sizing passive ventilation that will maintain the outside air temperature and negate the “greenhouse” effect is 1 air exchange per minute. The better the glazing is at blocking out solar heat gain, the less air exchanges needed for the greenhouse.

Manual j is garbage even most software has missing information even with a basic block load. You can take 10 different contractors on same house and you will have 10 different answers. Only the original person who built an existing house is only going to have the correct answers . Yes only a mechanical contractor has no buiness doing calculation on a structure that's license engineer only. Any time you answer question on a work sheet your guessing what you think it is. Equipment Installation is rule of thumb and years of experience. You don't see to much over sizing Equipment anymore. You got a lot of GC crap out there like 2 story house with damper systems. Putting a 3 ton on 4000 Sq ft house with spray foamed walls. It should be up to the discretion of a licensed contractor to make a tonnage or size call . You can argue 10 million points on the manual j never seen and thing good come out of this garbage. Let's say to have 4000 square foot house 1 door no windows walls 8ft thick and 20 Rooms in it well you dam good will fucking 2 ton not going push 800 cfm to all those rooms. If any thing the manual j will put you in a liability problem undersized the equipment.

You could take it back and exchange it.