Probably will some, but need to use and additive to break it up and change it again. Some will run diesel Fuel in the oil for few minute to loosen up the sludge. Depending on how much oil it holds is to how much diesel fuel you add to get it to work. Better to just buy the additive that's designed to clean the sludge or just use syn oil for couple changes and it should do the trick. Problem is how much wear has occurred from not changing the oil. Once you clean up all that sludge you may hear a thumping sound? If I inherited that problem I would just use syn oil and change it twice with about 5 to 10 hours on the oil changes. then go back to syn blend oil. or straight 30 weight. see what others have to say?

The company I work for has fleet of I/C powered forklifts. In 1989 & '90, we switched from diesel engines to LPG fueled engines (which are gasoline engines converted to propane). A few years later, the company selected a "test group" of forklifts to run in an extended oil change evaluation. The test was conducted in alliance with an "oil testing laboratory". The lab had to agree to use the same test procedure on "our" oil samples for the duration of the test. We did not know how long we would be testing. Our previous oil change interval was "Every 750 hours" (using the OEM hourmeter). This interval was in place when we ran diesel and gasoline powered I/C 'lifts. We wanted to determine how long we could safely run the oil between changes without harming the engine. The guidelines for the test were pretty simple on our part, the forklifts in the test group would not have their oil changed "Until further notice". Instead, we were only to "top off" the oil level when we drew an oil sample for the lab every 750 hours. Our 'lifts operate 24/7 with an average daily run time of 18 hours per 'lift, so we were pulling an oil sample about every 6 weeks (where this would have been an "oil change" prior to the test). The lab reported the test results of each sample to our corporate headqurters. Corporate only told us whether or not, to continue the testing of each 'lift, based on the report. At about 20 months into the test, we submitted a sample to the lab that had 10,000 (ten thousand) hours on it. Corporate headqurters informed us at that time to remove that 'lift from the test and change the oil based on the lab report that the oil "was degrading" and it's continued use was not recommended. We were instructed place the unit on a "tentative" 3000 hour oil change interval until the testing was ended on all 'lifts. By 24 months since the onset of the test, the oil in all the 'lifts had reached the 10,000 hour mark. The lab reports on a 10,000 hour old sample was very near the same for all 'lifts. The company ordered each 'lift that was part of the test to be placed on the same "tentative" 3000 hour oil change interval until further notice. It took the company almost a year from the end date of the testing to make all the changes to the inspection forms (for our PMs) and put the new standard of 3000 hours between oil and filter changes into effect. Our 'lifts remain in service at the "large distribution centers" for about 6 years (from the "new vehicle in service" date) at which time they will have accumulated from about 30,000 to 36,000 hours. At that time they are transferred out to "small town" locations where they may only get 2 to 4 hours run time per day. On these 'lifts we change the oil annually by the calender instead of going by the hourmeter. When a 'lift reaches 12 years old, it is sold on the public market. We have yet to "wear out" an engine. In fact, the only engine failure our location has had was due to the forklift operator continuing to run the 'lift after the water pump/alternator belt broke. We periodically check compression on our engines (24 month intervals) and I see engines near the 36,000 hour mark with 160 to 170 P.S.I. readings on all cylinders. Each owner of any equipment must decide what kind of oil change interval they want to use for their machines. I think it is safe to say that most of us can change the oil in our L&G equipment annually without worrying "if I'm doing it enough". I prefer to change the oil at the end of the season. I don't want that "contaminated" oil just sitting there in contact with the works of the engine for 6 months. I drop the oil (and filter where applicable), put in the fresh oil and run the engine for about 10 minutes (to make sure I get the oil "hot", gets rid of the moisture from the cold start up) before putting the machine away for the "off season". I feel that the fresh oil clings better to the engine parts than the old oil for the duration of storage. No matter what the "Oil experts" may say, some of us will continue with our own practices. For the people who lament that we are changing the oil "too often", well......there are some people out there who "never change their oil", so don't their habits offset the overall consumption average??

I would like to thank everyone for there thoughtful comments. Today another Senior Tech stopped by (the sales rep also a former tech arranged this for us) He walked in and immediately I envisioned Sherlock Holmes just by his demeanor. We went into the basement and unlike the previous 4 or 5 techs who spent hours on this rather then opening up the oil furnace He simply looked at the large pipe that extends from the furnace to the chimney. Then like Sherlock he rubbed his ring finger over it near the furnace. He smiled & said I know what the problem is. (I thought he was joking) After showing me a little dust. He pointed out a little discoloration on the pipe . He then said occasionally the heat is going in the wrong direction.. To prove this he connected a Draft Meter. When the system is on (flame on) its negative but when the fan goes on it is positive (looking for air) We went up stairs and once again he smiled. We have chairs and stuff in front of the outgoing vents and he moved them a few inches & then said problem solved. He said the newer powerful systems simply need to circulate more air. both in and out. We went back to the basement with his Draft Regulator and it tested perfect. IT only took this gentleman less then a minute to resolve a problem that we had since November or December -A problem that most of the other techs downplayed etc The chairs and stuff were there with the old less powerful furnace without any issues. . again thanks for your input.

I want to revise my comments about costs, as it's been several years since I replaced my own water heater and prices have gone up more than I thought. It's also unclear to me whether you are talking a regular oil-fired water heater or a tankless one. But in any case, I still think $3100 is much too high. I also am not convinced you will see big enough savings to justify whatever the outlay is. Your first priority should be to figure out why your electric bills are so high and what part of that is due to the existing water heater and its efficiency or inefficiency, how well it's insulated, and whether you can make changes in your hot water usage. To start with, contact your electric utility...many of them have energy conservation departments that can give you good advice, or maybe even visit your house to help figure this out. Your best bet might be to install an efficient, new electric water heater and try to limit hot water use more, and/or try to do things like running laundry loads late at night (off-peak hours) when electric rates could be lower. Here is a link that might be useful: Oil fired water heaters