Assuming that you are dealing with varnish somewhere in the carb, where you can't see it, you might be able to solve the problem by adding gum-out or something similar to the gas tank, getting the engine started using the primer button, and keeping it running by priming it manually every few seconds, when it starts to slow down. I was able to get our lawnmower going this spring, when it would start, but not idle. It takes about an hour of operation for the cleaning solvent to do its work. Eventually, the engine should idle on its own. If you try this method, and you are successful, then you can be sure that it was varnish that caused the problem. There are other possibilities, however. There could be a mechanical problem with the throttle, or there could be an air leak somewhere, causing a lean mixture. There is a slight chance that the carburetor has something blocking fuel flow that will not dissolve, like a metal filing, or some other foreign material.

The engine apparently has not suffered "catastropic" failure but as metal remarked, "it sure didn't help it". In this "sportsman's club", is the mowing a chore that is passed around to members or is it something you did just this time or is it going to be your job from now on? I ask because if you guys pass this chore around you need a back-up plan to make certain the pre-op checks are done as a separate duty and not just "part of the mowing job". If YOU (roland) are going to be handling the mowing (and oil checking) you will quickly be able to determine if this engine "uses this much oil" in one mowing session or if it just hadn't been checked and filled for some time. Your club might want to make sure there is an actual "maintenance plan" in place for this machine so the club won't be looking for a "new lawn tractor" prematurely.

I want to know what is the matter with the mechanics, especially at the dealerships - Chrysler Dodge Jeep to be exact? This scenario is lengthy to say the least! I had the radiator flushed and pressure tested at the local Chrysler dealership who has been servicing my Jeep since my purchase in 2004, last tested and flushed two years ago @ 64,000 miles because I was experiencing pouring coolant into the reservoir every time I turned around. Funny thing was there was no evidence as to where it was going because it didn't show up on the ground. I kept asking, "Where's it going, back into the engine?" Chrysler looked all over under the car and couldn't locate any drips! Funny thing is a few months later when I became extremely aggitated with the local Chrysler mechanic, and the problem worsened and when I took it back to the local Chrysler dealership, they stated nothing was found once again, I took it to a supposedly 5-star Chrysler dealership in another town, and I was informed there was a hole in the radiator. The local Chrysler service manager said, as I thought he would, "You could have gotten a hole just from driving from here to there if a stone popped up." Jeeps have a grille that protects the radiator. I was advised by friends to go to a local mechanic so I had a new aluminum radiator installed (2 yr warranty on parts only). I was still adding coolant and kept complaining to Chrysler and the local mechanic. All of a sudden, all the lights came on the dash, I popped the hood and checked the coolant - it was empty. Checked the radiator after it cooled down and there was no coolant - it was all on the ground. Called the local mechanic who said to take the car to his shop right away. So, a friend filled the radiator and reservoir as full as possible since it came out as fast as put in, so I could quickly drive 5 miles down the road. The plug popped out of this new radiator. And, by the way, the local mechanic swore the radiator was a Chrysler product, yet the Chrysler mechanic couldn't find any emblems that would indicate that fact. The coolant leak continued, now putting coolant in every few days. The local mechanic said it was going to the floorboard under the mat on passenger side because I need a new heater core. Do you see where this is going? After that installation, the coolant still needed to be added every 5-8 days. I was advised that is normal until things get back to normal flow. Now my dash was not reinstalled properly and I have flapper air ducts added to my console in front of the manufacture air ducts that the local mechanic stated was part of my system and it was always there, a busted speaker, a resistor that has since been replaced because I was advised by the local mechanic that is why the A/C and Htr were sporadically operating. Meanwhile the coolant is still being added by me every 5-8 days, and once in a while sooner as soon as all the lights come on and I find the reservoir is empty. The out of town Chrysler mechanic looked at the underneath when I showed them pictures of the puddles in my driveway, and advised me the undercarriage is showing no signs of dripping. The next morning, the drips caused even a larger puddle overnight that I took pictures again. the local Chrysler dealer mechanic installed a new heater hose that was supposedly defective (but I asked for all hoses and belts to be replaced at 100k miles and was told they were all fine and the local mechanic replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses). I still was adding coolant every 10 days or less. Finally, after nearly a year of putting up with the incompetency of the mechanics, I demanded a new radiator from the local mechanic who did not guarantee his labor. Mind you, the dripping was now larger than just puddles in the aluminum tray under the car in my carport. I picked up my car this morning, except it needed jumping because the service rep at the Chrysler dealership advised me the WalMart 1 year old battery with a 3-yr life expectancy (3rd replacement in 5 yrs) is bad. Walmart tested the battery with the hand held tester then took the battery out and retested, and it was fine. So, I replaced the connectors to see if that would make a difference. I drove it home, parked it in my carport, went in the house for a few minutes after turning off the engine, and what did I see after 4 hrs of having my SUV in my possession, but new coolant on the white towel I placed on the carport to catch the residue the local Chrysler mechanic told me I would most likely experience. The radiator removed yesterday was returned to the local mechanic, who turned it into the parts supply house for a replacement. The local mechanic was extremely insulting when I advised him today that I was returning the 2nd radiator for a complete refund because both radiators blew at the seams (the clamps holding the radiator's aluminum wires in tact-1st radiator on the right and the 2nd one on the left). The local Chrysler mechanic pressure tested the last radiator and checked under the carriage and saw no leaks before he released it to me. When he pressure tested it upon my return, we could hear water running and see it squirting all over the top of the radiator. I thought my radiator experience starting more than 2 yrs ago was highly unusual, but what do I know? The local mechanic, at my insistance, called the parts supplier - refund will be delivered in a few days and the radiator will be collected. In the meantime, I sit with no radiator and a dilemma. I saw white drops all over the previous radiator and this last one that was removed today. When inquiring of the local Chrysler mechanic and service rep, when I picked up the last removed radiator to deliver to the local mechanic, I was advised that it was nothing, just splatterings. Chrysler parts dept ordered a new radiator from 1-800-radiator because the price was $200 compared with nearly $400 if I ordered a Chrysler radiator. I paid Chrysler $285 for labor including coolant to install the previous radiator that the local mechanic wanted $300+. The removal was free today, but I paid for a rental car now for 2 days. When Napa quoted me $150 today for their radiator with a lifetime guarantee, I immediately called 1-800-radiator to see how much I would have had to pay, instead of Chrysler, for that radiator. The salesperson knows mechanics and warned me, after I told him briefly my dilemma of installing another radiator, and he advised me about electrolysis and the cost will be on me if that is the culprit for my radiator problems. After researching on the Internet, I am now thinking there is something to that analyzation. I've been complaining about an electrical problem for a very long time - more than 2 yrs., but no one found anything wrong; and as I said, the battery has not lasted its warranty periods, and yesterday the license plate connector was burnt. Supposedly, after uninstalling an after market alarm system the previous owner had installed, it was to prevent any electrical problems from occurring. I replaced the heater core about 6 months ago, which three years ago the local Chrysler dealership replaced as well. Do you see the picture? Who in the hell can I trust with my vehicle if the two dealerships don't know what they are doing when one of them is a 5-star????????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!????????? Any ideas? I even tried to get Chrysler Corp involved. The next thing I knew the Service Manager was replaced with another, but I didn't get anywhere else with them, no recoup. The next thing is BAR and BBB for all four of them including Chrysler Corporate!!!!!!!! And, maybe Fox investigative team would like to hear about this!!!!! What do you think? I had a similar problem with my rear differential, and although I complained to Chrysler Corp because I had just paid for the differential service 6 months prior and they should have seen the metal flakes. Now, I read that the crankcase and metal flakes can have something to do with the electrical system and grounding that can also cause electrolysis in the radiator. WOW!!!!!!

It seems that you have electrical intermittent connections. It will take a lot of sleuthing to sort things out. Start by becomming familar with how your dash and instrument panel is constructed and where the electriacal connections are located. A good repair manual with electrical diagams is a must. A few hints: The instruments are powered by a regulated voltage, usually around 5 volts. This is a vey low voltage and tough to keep relaible. Typical instruments powered by this supply are tachometer, speedometer, temperature gage, oil pressure gage, and fuel level. If the tach and speedo quits a the same tine, suspect the connector to the instrument panel. You probably have a printed circuit instrument panel that is removeable for replacing its lamps. It may plug into a connector and this may be a flimsy printed circuit affair. This a common source for problems. A poor ground to the panel can affect a combination of items, sometimes in unexpecterd ways. I had one that affected the operation of the turn signal lamps. Corroded conectors in the various fuse and relay panels will casue problems. Three out of four of your radio speakers have quit. Examine the circuit diagram and look for connections that are common to these failed items. There is always the possibility that the radio has failed and the speaker system is ok. If there is an aluminum conductor in the wiring harness suspect it. Trouble points are where aluminum comes into contact with a dissimilar metal. For example, in one of my GM cars, there was an 8 conductor flat cable that was part of the body wiring harness. One wire was aluminum and the other 7 were copper. The aluminum wire was in the fuel gage circuit. Severe corrosion developed at a connector in the trunk where the aluminum lead mated to the copper lead of the tank sensor. I fear that you may have a group of corrosion related circuit problems. Happy hunting.