Donn, Sorry about the plants BUT they will probably be just fine if the roots are good. I have just come back from the 'special' annual plant sale that I attend with 32 pots of grasses (and assorted other perennials). These are in larger pots than your plugs but they are VERY ratty looking on the topside and terribly pot bound on the bottom side. I have had a good 85% success rate with these end of the season plants in the past. End of pep talk, on to suggestions: Since you are in zone 7 and still have quite a bit of good weather left. Soil temperature rather than air temperature is the important factor in this case. - I would 'unpot' and plant out all the grasses that you recieved AND I would do it right away. You wouldn't be doing the plants any favors leaving them in such small pots. And as you suggest, loosen the roots. - I think you mentioned in your last post that you soaked (rehydrated) the pots, that was a great idea. - Carex and Acorus foliage I would leave alone - they don't usually like to be trimmed in the fall & they get ratty over the winter anyhow. Maybe plant them behind a larger grass to give them protection from the direct sun. - All others I would trim ALL the foliage to at least 3 inches or shorter. (I just saw a pennisetum at this plant sale that had been giving a buzz cut and it had lots of new growth) - Fertilize with the same mixture you use for seedlings - ie high middle number to encourage root growth. You can do this right away, when you plant them. With a little continued TLC your plants should survive just fine. A. btw, you could pot them in bigger pots as you suggest but IMHO most things do just a little better right in the ground (unless your ground sucks).

I know there are scientific reasons that some color combinations are so pleasing... Correct again. Doesn't matter what primary colors you choose to comprise a color wheel (Red/Yellow/Blue or Cyan/Magenta/Yellow) in every case, harmonious color relationships are mathematical based on varied distances around the wheel. For example complementary color schemes means the two colors are opposite at 180 degrees. Analogous colors are neighbors on the color wheel at an angle of 60 degrees. Triadic means all three colors are equidistant at 120 degrees --- and so on. And that applies to the whole color sphere moving in all the way towards chromatic grays, not just the outside rim of the color wheel. Again, when you start dissecting color at this level, you start to understand how color really works and why it's so important to have a correct understanding of the proper structure of color. This is also where the miscellaneous color systems and processes people conjure up start to fracture into the disparate inaccuracies that they are. For example, just one popular 'method' is to collect a bunch of color chips and take them all home and then perform a process of elimination. When you understand how and why color works they way it does, you realize how ridiculous those approaches are. But. When people don't have the proper knowledge, they're left to their own devices. And when people are left to their own devices, they'll fill in the blanks the best they can. They make stuff up so color makes sense to them. It's an effort to shift color from something that's confusing to somethings that is manageable. Understandable how and why that happens. What's unfortunate is when the unfounded, inaccurate made-up stuff gets traction and takes on a life of its own to the extent that the mass consciousness then start to perceive it as fact. So instead of just one person being confused about color, you have many that are misguided and misinformed. It can be argued that the internet has not been a positive force when it comes to color education. Rather, it's done a lot of damage by providing a platform for the misguided and misinformed to spread their wealth of misinformation.

Make sure you have a disposal with the shortest possible distance from the bottom of the sink to the waste line connector. That's the least expensive and least hassle solution. You'd have to unzip the back of the cabinet and see the piping configuration inside the wall. If it's verticle, it's fairly easy to lower the sanitary tee. If it's horizontal, you're probably screwed. You are correlating the slight upward slant of the pipiing to a slow drain, however, correlation isn't always causation. Although it isn't code, I've seen situations like yours evacuate just fine. Try snaking your lines first please.

If so, any thoughts on how to determine approximately how much lighter You can find out exactly how much lighter. There's nothing about a formula that defines or describes color appearance. Because it's just a list of ingredients. The psychophysical sensations of hue/color, lightness, and chroma can't be derived from the formula. Just like you can't read the list of ingredients on the back of a cake mix and know how it's going to taste. Have to measure the colors. It's easy. Store should be able to do it for you or you can do it yourself. Either way, need to carefully paint small samples. One full coat let it dry. Second coat let it dry. Order a Color Muse from Amazon Download Color Muse app Change settings to D65 Illuminant, 2° Observer Choose "Compare" in lower left corner Hit the 3 dots in upper right corner > Switch to Advance Mode Scan Color 1 > Scan Color 2 Compare L = Lightness. Bigger number is the lighter color