The fan went out on my Lennox heat pump in late spring. My regular Lennox dealer's service man estimated the cost to replace the fan would be about $380 plus parts. I have a handyman that said he could look over the fan and see if he could do it. He could. Meantime I went to the Granger supply catalog on-line and entered the fan model he gave me and they had many equivalent replacements from about $70 to $120. I chose the more expensive one because it was rated at the highest operating temperature and had windings capable of drawing more current. It cost me $50 to have him put it and a replacement starting capacitor in (2 hours @ $25 per hour). The motor itself only cost me $80 because we have a local Grange supply store and they were a lot cheaper there than online. You have to have a business license or know someome who does to shop there. Giving the Lennox dealer a normal 30% markup The fan and capacitor should cost you less than $150. If labor is $70/hr, 2 hours would have been $140, for a total of less than $290. I live in the Pacific Northwest. Hope this helps.

Excellent advice Doral. One caveat, HVAC-Talk are mostly HVAC pros. It is worthwhile to get some input from educated homeowners as well. The hi-tech systems with the most bells and whistles aren't always the best systems for the situation. 1. What would you recommend as a good manufacturer / system for this climate? - The quality of the install and the ductwork is as important as the manufacturer. Find a competent contractor who you trust. Brand bashing is bull. Make sure that the model numbers of the condenser (outside unit) and air handler (inside unit) are on the quote. With the model numbers, you can verify system sizing as well as SEER/EER performance. "2. What is the best unit and seer for the money?" - The mother of all questions. The best unit is a properly matched system that you have researched and feel comfortable that you have received a quality install and a good purchase price. - What are your electric rates - generation + distribution + transmission (cents per btu-hr. Example: 10 cents per kw-hr)? This will help answer the best SEER for the money question. "3. Is there enough of a difference between the highest seer units to justify the price differential?" - The 2nd mother of all questions. This depends on your electric rate. Note that the Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) determines your true operating costs as a homeowner and not Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). This is one of those little facts that you may not get from a pro. EER is taken at 95 degrees outside air while SEER is taken at 82 degrees outside. You want a system that has 12 EER minimum regardless of SEER. - Once above 15 SEER, the systems get more complicated and change from one single speed compressor (most systems have this) to one dual stage compressor (16 SEER) or 2 separate compressors (19 SEER) that run on first and second stages. These provide enhanced humidity control but are much more complicated asd cost a lot more $$. THESE SYSTEMS DO NOT LOWER YOUR UTILITY BILL AS YOUR OPERATING COST IS BASED ON EER AND NOT SEER. "4. Is it better to replace both units with 2 new ones or does it make more sense to replace with just one unit?" - Usually, if the house is designed for 2 systems, it is best to keep 2 systems. This will keep the house at a more uniform temperature and minimize hot rooms or rooms with poor circulation and high humidity. "5. Anyone in the Sarasota area have any really good contractor recommendations? 6. Anyone know how the FPL rebate works?" Some of the HVAC-Talk guys are from Florida and they can help you. Note that there is also a Federal Tax Rebate from Uncle Sam that you can qualify for as well (15 SEER and 12.5 EER to qualify - both must be met). Best of luck to you.

I know nothing about why your home is not set up for central air. I can speak knowledgeably about split a/c units. We installed them when we lived in Thailand. They are remarkable, in that they usually feature a dehumidify setting, to get the moisture out without making it too cold, as well as a cooling setting. If they worked at 17 degrees from the equator during monsoon season and hot dry season they ought to work well in Washington state. We went with small units in each bedroom, so that we were only cooling the area we were in, and one larger 20kbtu unit for the entire downstairs.

20' can easily be accommodated, I've put in systems before with in some cases line sets as long as 100'. Just realize long line set runs require extra work and line set length requirements are not just length but also rise / drop from where the condenser sits. Yes piping, electrical wires etc. will have to be run to the condenser. The longer the line set run, you may minimize your choice among brands as some brands allow less in the amount of length / drop / rise in the line set. But at 20' total length any brand can handle that no problem provided the equipment is installed properly. If this is moving your AC condenser from current location you should NOT reuse the current line set in any fashion. Replace the whole thing to proper size. The HVAC contractor you choose should be well versed in things such as this, otherwise serious problems could follow.