The problem I have noticed at all of the stores is they often don't have the parts in the right bin so they may never replace the right parts. Sometimes I have to buy 2 0r 3 parts to get the same thing as one of the correct configuration. Then I go to another store and there the part is only it is called something else. Recently I was looking in one bin and discovered 4 parts that connected 3x4in. drain spouts to 6 inch diameter pipe that goes to a storm drain, a part they swore had not been carried for several years and never would have been in the plumbing section anyway. I bought it since I needed it for the unfinished rain gutters but it took forever to get a price. I have found I automatically check the bins even if I don't really need something at that time. I have a growing collection of odd connectors I may never need. Sigh... Sandy

There is an upper drive shaft housing and a lower drive shaft housing around the drive shaft. You state that you continually must remove the lower shaft or edger unit, adjust, and re-install. Unless there is excessive wear or something is broken, there are at least 3 possible places for the drive shaft to be "too long." These are at the place where the upper shaft fits into the engine unit, at the coupler that joins the upper and lower shafts, and at the bottom where the edger head fits onto the lower shaft. To make sure that the pieces go back together properly  mark each part of the shaft, coupler, etc. so that you get proper alignment when putting it back together. For the upper drive shaft, remove or loosen the coupler where the upper shaft connects to the lower shaft. Then loosen bolts where the upper shaft connects to the engine unit. Do a couple of short twists and turns with the upper shaft to make sure it is slightly loose  and with a little force, push the upper shaft housing into the engine unit to seat it properly. Re-install the coupler, making sure that it also is seated as far onto the upper shaft as is required. At the bottom where the lower shaft fits into the edger unit  loosen any holding screws and make sure that the edger head is pushed far enough onto the lower shaft, then re-fasten the screws.

More war stories, I called Midas to see what they wanted for the front exaust, they said pipe would be approximately $300. So the local guy's price of $270 was in the "zone", again I can buy it over the counter locally for $170 and shipped from RockAuto (I haven't checked AZ) for $130. My survey result: they all price gouge. So next time when you think the labor costs of $70 and up per hour are high, keep in mind you're likely paying parts mark-up that runs $100 per hour and up. For the case-in-point, Midas went so far as to estimate the labor at 0.8 hours, so $300-130= $170 price mark-up for the parts used, and I'll bet they'll get you/me for some extras, clamps/hangers... anyway $170/0.8 = $212.50 per hour just from parts mark-up. Now the poor hired hand is likely making $20 per hour, maybe $30 loaded labor cost, so you can see why the owners are still in business.

Let me start by saying that the initial response by "Kalining" was indeed very snotty & condescending. I, on the other hand, would like to put in my two cents WITHOUT putting you down or essentially calling your project a waste of time. I have a bit of experience in this area, as I am in the midst of the EXACT same project. I, too, have a D850 that I'm building into a standby generator. A few points of clarification. As the D850 has an intermittent max of 18 bhp at 3000 rpm, it would be suitable for roughly a 10kw generator head. Now, to connect a head to be used at 3000 rpm, you won't be able to direct couple. A belt drive is the likely choice. Should you go with an 1800 rpm, direct couple, according to the power curve for the D850, you'll only have about 13.5 bhp to work with, which won't get you much of a generator. While the 1800 rpm generators are generally more desirable for extended use, the 3600 rpm versions are hardly 'toys'. They are quite suitable for most applications however it would be important to choose your vendor wisely. For intermittent use, they are perfectly fine. The head I obtained is the Voltmaster AR100, a brushless unit which produces 10kw peak, 9.5kw continuous, requiring 18hp at 3600rpm. http://www.voltmasteramerica.com/products/AR100.htm I got it for a song off Craigslist-brand new. You could also do one of those rather reliable 1800rpm Chinese ST heads, but you'll of course require a greater pulley diameter variance to step down to 1800 from 3000. To mount up such a beast, dual groove sheaves are required to handle the load, sized accordingly to match the engine speed with the required rpm of the head. It's also important to size the sheaves large enough to prevent belt slippage. I have some technical documents for the D850 that I'll be happy to email you upon request, as well as the data sheets for my generator head. Also-parts for the 'old' D850 are still readily available. Like yours, mine was sitting for a number of years & I just slapped a battery on it & it fired right up. They are VERY reliable motors & if the hours are not too excessive, you should get a lot of use out of it. Oh, almost forgot another important point. If your engine was not originally set up to drive a generator, (BG designation), then the governor spring will likely need to be changed to a more 'responsive' one, Kubota p/n 19259-56411. This is necessary so the engine will maintain a closer 5% rpm tolerance when under varying loads. Tis all for now. I look forward to maintaining a dailog on your project & rest assured, I won't be talking down to you on the subject. FYI-another great web resource is www.utterpower.com Steve