It's normal to feel some "cogging" from the magnets in the SmartDrive motor when rotating the basket by hand. F&P bearings don't fail very often, although it surely can happen. The control board monitors and directly controls the rotational speed of the motor, so theoretically it should trigger a fault code if the motor can't reach the target speed. If you aren't getting any fault codes, then something else may be wrong, such as a clogged diverter valve that is allowing the water to partially recirculate during drain. Or, possibly a piece of clothing such as a sock or some other foreign object is caught under the inner basket. Run these tests and report the results. - With the machine's power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. The panel should turn on in Diagnostic Mode. - Press Spin Speed Up (or Down as needed) to turn on BOTH the Hold and Slow lights. The Wash Progress lights indicate the last recorded Fault Code in binary numbering. Add up the total of the lights that are on, that's the fault code. From left to right, the eight lights are numbered 128, 64, 32, 16, 8, 4, 2, 1. You may not have a code displayed. - Press the Delicate cycle button. This activates the diverter valve for testing. The Delicate light will come on, but nothing else obvious happens at this point, so don't be concerned about that. - Press Wash Temp Down to turn on the cold water (again to turn it off). Press Wash Temp Up to check the hot water. Let the machine fill with just enough water to see it coming up in the tub. - If less than 3 mins since you turned on Delicate, wait a little longer after filling the water. Otherwise, press Regular to turn on the pump. Water should shower out of the recirculation port at the top right-rear of the tub, and NO WATER should come out of the drain hose. Note also if the pump sounds normal, or is noisy similar to what you hear during the spin problem. - Press both Regular and Delicate to turn the pump and diverter off. Wait 3+ mins again. Press Regular to turn the pump back on (do not press Delicate). Water should flow out the drain hose, and NONE from the recirculation port. Let the water drain fully, and note again if the pump sounds normal.

It did fill now, but now on the last cycle. Did you mean "not on the last cycle?" ... meaning the 2nd load didn't fill to a reasonable level for the wash period? Washing large comforters on GWL11, use the Delicate cycle, manually set High water level. A broken agitator fin prevents proper sensing for the auto water level function. Resistance of the load against the fins during a series of test agitation strokes is part of the sensing process. Broken fins also contribute to off-balance incidents being as the load distribution will be thrown askew during agitation. Replacing the agitator should have resolved the problems related to it. Is the load really off-balance? Do you redistribute the items before restarting? Can't say if it's part of your problem without examination ... the tub support rods can get worn after some years of use and cause excessive off-balance occurrences. Replacement is fairly easy and they're not overly expensive, approx $80 for a set of all four rods.

9+ years on F&P Intuitive (same basic design as yours...just more options) and not a whiff of anything nasty or moldy to be found. I do NOT run exclusively cold, which I have always found to be a bad idea. Also, I do occasionally use LFS (depends on the items being washed). However, I wash colds on cold, items recommended for warm on warm, whites and cleaning rags on hot, etc. I also run the recommended cleaning cycle 4 times per year (every season), with one of them (once per year) being exclusively hot water and lots of vinegar (i.e. no detergent). This not only cleans, sanitizes and deodorizes, but also removes every last speck of detergent reside too. The tub looks like new afterwards! The washer has been great and cleans very well, but every machine requires maintenance of some kind. If you never take care of it you will pay the price afterwards (if it were topic-appropriate, I'd tell the story of someone I know who never bothered to do any maintenance of any kind on their car...big mistake!).

@HU-800120566 Next step is do not try running the machine any further with a bad pump unless you have confirmed there's a fuse on the pump wires in the console, and even then it's not a good idea. The next step beyond that is disconnect the wires from the pump and 1) check for 7 ohms resistance reading on the pump and 2) check for 120v power at the pump wires when running it in diagnostics. If no power at the wires then the motor board is bad. If the resistance reading is more than 10% wrong either + or - then the pump is bad ... but it could be bad even if the reading isn't too far wrong. A test cord can be rigged to run the pump directly from an outlet. Clearly the pump is bad it it doesn't run that way ... or if it runs but overheats and shuts off. Are you sure you're getting Fault 39? A failed pump typically triggers Fault 37. However, the machine does not monitor pump operation directly. Failure to drain is determined by way of the water level not dropping when it should be doing so ... which is via the water level sensor ... so Fault 39 could also be part of that problem. 36, 37, 38, and 39 can be related to the water level sensor or pressure tube issues.