I was shopping for the exact same thing six months ago, have a 36" range and really wanted this to be my "extra oven" in a pinch. I educated myself well in this forum and then made a rash decision based on price, despite all the warnings...and now am paying the "real price" (see the link to my other thread) What you really need to know is that most microwave/convection ovens are manufactured by just a few companies and then rebranded at different price points. A lot of the "high end" (translate costly) versions are simply rebranded Sharps for instance...a point made many times on this forum. Anyhow, hope that helps just a little--there are people on this forum with far better knowledge on this subject than me so I'm sure they'll chime in... Kindly, B Here is a link that might be useful: My Convection/MW story

The built in exhaust in the OTR MC is an issue you should also consider. This depends on at least 2 issues: (1) whether you can exhaust to the outside, which is preferable; (2) your cooking habits. Generally, OTR MCs do not exhaust as well as separate range hoods. But if your space is limited and you need the OTR go with it, and be aware that you will not get optimal exhaust capacity, which means with certain kinds of cooking, some odors may spread and linger in the house. You can get an OTR MC that exhausts to the outside, and should seriously consider one if your range is on an outside wall and that kind of venting is possible. If not, make sure you get one with a really good recirculating filter. Consumer Reports rates them for that feature and other features as well.

I am with you in that I very rarely use my microwave. In fact it broke 2 months ago and it is not an issue, except one time when my husband and I were going out one night and as a treat my kids wanted lean pockets(a forbidden food) for dinner. I baked them in the oven and they were apparently not as good. Have you considered taking the current microwave out now and living without it to see what it feels like? I always only planned to get a tiny microwave, 0.7 or 0.9 cubic feet. Originally I thought about putting it under counter on a shelf in my island, then I decided I didn't want to waste MY island real estate on something I didn't even like. I then changed my plan to put it on an open shelf. I also debated about sticking it in our walk in pantry. Since it is currently broken and not an issue, I am just not thinking about it, and not acting on it. I will have the open shelf made deep enough, 13 or 13.5 inches to accommodate one in the future should I decide to buy one. That's all I am doing. Anyway this is my vote for not kowtowing to the "you must have a microwave" majority.

For undercabinet lighting, the secret to not seeing the actual lights is to install them toward the front of the upper cabinets, not toward the back. Electricians like to install them toward the back because it's easier for them; meanwhile you have to live with it for years. When you install the lights toward the back, you will be able to see them. When you install toward the front, they are just behind the light rail. The "light rail" is called a "light rail" for a reason--you are supposed to install UCLs just behind them. The other advantage to installing the UCLs toward the front is that they will be lighting the center of the counters, instead of the backsplash. Regarding the outlets, I installed mine in the backsplash, but closer to the counter. That way, you can hide them behind the paper towel holder, coffee maker, etc. I also installed them horizontally, not vertically, which also makes them less visible, and if you are tiling your backsplash, will fit the tile better. Local Code required a minimum distance of 4" from counter to center of the receptacle (again, I installed horizontally). Some Codes may have a different distance required, and some localities have no Code for this at all. There is also Cloud_Swift's solution to hiding outlets in the backsplash. It's pretty impressive: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2575553/cloud-swiftyour-outlet-covers?n=5