That is truly a shame, and its probably the #1 reason the 2-cycle mower always had a smaller market share after the 4-cycle rotary mower entered the scene. Anybody who did that probably never bought another 2-cycle. Who knows? The Lawn-Boy cylinder has an iron sleeve, so maybe it can be cleaned up. Some new rings and maybe you're back in business. Put some oil in the spark plug hole and see if you can get any movement now that its cooled off. I would use Marvel Mystery Oil and stand the mower up on its rear wheels so the oil can work its way past the piston - put about 2 oz. in there. Leave the spark plug out and see if you can turn the blade after a day or two soak. Don't forget to tie down the bail so the engine brake is released. You might get lucky and get it running again, but most likely you will have to replace the engine if you want to keep the mower.

I checked my compression today and it read 105psi. I am not sure what the factory spec is, but it seems like a reasonably good number for ignition. I am wondering if burning oil simply gunks up spark plugs and perhaps I may need to change them more often. Another thought I had was that this new syn.oil I put in this season is removing the old sludge from the conventional oil of other seasons, and it is ending up on my spark plug. Other than burning oil and gunking up the spark plug (the plug never fouled by the way) the machine seems to run fine. I am just concerned that something else might be wrong, causing bigger problems. It was a pretty gunked up plug for one season's use. If anyone else has some thoughts or some test I can run or something I should check, I would appreciate the suggestions.

My 2 cents on the matter. I've been using this procedure for over 35 years and NEVER has my equipment failed to start in the spring. That includes ethanol mixed gas. I plan to have as little gas in the tank as possible, I then let the engine run dry, as it starts to sputter, I engage the choke which lets it run a bit longer and removes even more fuel from the carb bowl. I then remove the fuel hose from the carb (with or without shut off) and let whatever fuel is left in the tank empty out. There will always be a bit left in the tank. Sometimes I even attach my compressor to the tank and blow out whatever is left. Next I remove the spark plug and shoot a little oil down the cylinder and pull the chord several times. I then slowly pull the chord until I feel resistance and stop, the cylinder is now at Top Dead Center and that relieves the pressure on the valves springs as well as sealing the cylinder a to prevent moisture buildup. Lastly I change the oil, clean or replace air filter and spark plug, then screw the spark plug back in hand tight. I also install a sharpened blade ((spare) at this time. In the spring I unscrew the spark plug, pull the chord several times to purge the cylinder of oil, screw the plug back in and add fresh gas (with Stabil). I pull the chord once or twice and the engines always start right up, It may smoke for a little while since some oil still remains in the cylinder but clears up shortly. My recent push mower, a Toro Personal Pace is going into it's 14th season and still always starts in the spring, as well as all summer on the first pull. All my equipment is stored in unheated shed and out of the elements. There are many who believe top off the tank with Stabil enriched gas is a better method, however, this method has worked for me all these years and I intend to continue.

I would remove the exhaust and shine a light down the port and look at the piston, it should look smooth without any scratch marks like a lack of oil, if the piston rings look good, check the cylinder walls, better yet just use a compression test, it should be at least 100 # to run proper. Probably fried if ran over 30 min's ? WDIK