Thanks David. Being precise and listing every point and sub point is tricky. English was my worst subject in school, I'm better at building bathrooms than building paragraphs. I work harder posting more information but like you mentioned everyone needs to dig deeper, find all the questions that need answering and then go about finding the correct answers and then confirming the source of the answer. I have spoken with my supplier and received info back from them direct, I then worked out my own math to confirm and then double check the Heat Loss table. We adjust the cable spacing only a little to try and fudge out dips and valleys. And never bring the cable in closer than spec'd. Again, I'll post my math and equations with as much detail as I can provide so people can understand the process I use to work out these calculations. I build stuff every day, I read and hone my skills everyday and I work with pros everyday. I have learned a lot and which each new project there is always the "X" factor. Your gut can tell you when something just doesn't look right and inspectors should be shown what your doing and not left out of the loop. We have a great group of men and women checking our projects here in Vancouver, get to know your local inspectors - it's worth it. My building inspector left my home raving about it yesterday - he went on to say it should be entered in a contest and hopes he gets to come back for the final so he can see my home completed. These are not monsters or people to avoid- they are your last double check on your project and honestly speaking you should be the last check on any project. It's your project - don't trust anyones opinion as fact. Work it out yourself or spend your time finding the right contractor. There are many guys out there who know what their doing, take out permits and do the job right. That said they seem to be the minority...

The trend now days is towards infloor heat. Infloor heating systems operate at 120 degrees as opposed to 180 degrees for Radiant baseboard heat. Because infloor systems work at 120 degrees, you can use a condensing boiler which has efficiencies which compare to forced air systems. Some claims are up to 98% efficient, but 94% is typical. Your highest efficiencies come when you can condense the combustion gases which is impossible with a system that operates at 180 degrees. Uponor (Formerly Wirsbo) was the innovator from Sweden. When you are near a cold surface such as a wall, you will feel colder than the room temperature. When you have a warm floor, you will feel warmer than the room temperature. Infloor heat is great to walk on with bare feet and great for kids to play on the floor. Stay warm! Dan Martyn Here is a link that might be useful: UPONOR

Here is what I would do if I was you. You don't need that many btu's to heat up them two rooms. Plus you want to get hot water also. haved a certified takagi tankless water rep. come to your home. ( this will be free ) tell him you want a tk-3 pro. ( better heat exchange in the unit itself) it can fire up to 199,000 btu's and down to 11,000 btus. then you want to use a bronze bump with a heat exchanger on one side, plus boiler trim. (1/6 horse power. with a mixing valve for your domestic water. you want to then put two zones on other sided of a heat exchanger with a zone board for 2 zones with 2 pumps one for the baseboard. Ask for high trim baseboard so you can set the water temp down and get max btu's per lininer foot. set the temp for 150 degress durring the winter cold month. Now for the radiant floor get a viega dealer in ur neighborhood. get climate panels that you can put cement nails in and the put a flooring on top. If you wanted to know more about this rout just leave a post. you can have all 3 comming off one unit. The best thing about this type of set up is that you dont need 180 degree water like a boiler. and in summer time you can set the water temp down to 120 or 115. and when your away on vacation you use no gas. The down side is hat the climate panels can be expensive, the tankless water heater has to have a nice size gas line. the equipment to do this job can get pricy. I mean really pricey. with nice equipment comes a good price. Takagi & viega are my brand of choice. but you could use navian and wirlsboro if you wish. all 4 manufactors will be happy to come to your home and sit dowwn and talk to you. ( I sell all four)

Posted by scott2006 on Sun, Feb 18, 07 at 20:32... "Guys, The Legionnairs is nothing to fool with. My neighbor got it TWICE from the hot water tank. The 2nd time the health department finaly figured it out. What happen is hes an old guy living alone and wants to save money. He turns the tank off when he doesn't shower then turns it up just enough to take a warm shower. Then off it goes." Wow...this was not an issue for me. Our apartment in Singapore used a small 15 litre electric HW tank on a timer switch. This is a relatively common arrangement in the Lion City. Just push a button 20 minutes before needing hot water, and I was good-to-go. The timer ran only for an hour at a time. I'd have to push the button again if I wanted more. In a tropical climate, that was rarely necessary. We would sometimes go a couple of days between heating the tank. Other times, I'd forget to hit the timer until it was too late. It was warm water for my shower or the dishes at this point. I'd shut it off right after I was done, as there was no need for the heater to finish it's cycle. The hot (or sometimes warm) water fed the the shower, kitchen sink, and bathroom sink. I showered, washed dishes, and drank without ever getting sick from it. As-far-as-I-know, no-one has gotten Legionnaire's Disease from using luke-warm water in Singapore. I just wish more Asian countries would use S-traps for sinks and showers. P-traps are common in Singapore. No traps are common in Indonesia. Yuck. I guess that's a discussion for another thread. Peace. Marco