but noticed some spectacular hostas being posted that WERE fertilized and figured it won't hurt to give them a few granules here and there. ==>>> here is how its supposed to work... in my head [for what that is worth].... application and theory are often divergent ... the whole point of potting media.... is WATER MANAGEMENT .... in a predictable manner .... water should go in the top ... retain what is needed.. and that varies per plant... and then out the bottom ... media should be changed.. when that predictability ceases ... e.g. one pot stays too wet ... the plant wilts because it doesnt hold enough water.. the plant deepens... etc ... with me so far???? so.. by draining all out the bottom ... it takes with it.. over a year or two.. all the nutrients.... so then you have to address fertilizer ... and that would depend on your growing season ... because you want it.. on some level.. to also flush thru .. so that the media is somewhat neutral by the time dormancy/winter comes around.... so timing and type is imperative ... stuff like time release.. has length ratings for season... e.g. 9 months, 3 month.. 4 month ... the 9 is used for greenhouse plants that never really go dormant .... and when you think about it... here in MI ...you are lucky to have a 3 month schedule .... [ruling out coming up ion stored energy thru late may ... and starting to decline by mid sept ....] so ... enough for now... a few granules of this or that.. applied after frost/freeze is done in spring ... or even better.. a water sol.. should cause no problem.. ever... as you say.. a little of this or that wont hurt .. but get it thru your head... IN A POT... more is usually not better ... you can not change the genetic growth rate of a plant by hyperfertilization ..... i said.. good day ... ken

Carol0512: Without knowing all the details of your home's construction I still feel that neither of your two options are going to be satisfactory. Doubtful that Choice # 1 will give reasonable cooling to the other two rooms without some type of fans located to move air into those other rooms. Will probably overcool the room it's located in along with drafty feeling from high air flow...and don't forget the noise factor. Choice # 2 even though it's located under a porch roof is way undersized to cool 585 square feet. That size unit is probably better suited to cool 200-250 square feet at most. Would seem that you would need at least two window units if that's the way you want to go. A better solution and much more expensive might be to look at a mini split AC system with at least a couple of air handler units within the space mentioned.

And then I found this Watts Premier RO system on Amazon for $177: Watts Premier RO-Pure 531411 4-Stage Reverse Osmosis System Product Description From the Manufacturer If quality and convenience are what you're in the market for, then this is the water filtration system for you. These filters change out at the push of a button. You don't need to turn off the water supply to the system and there's no waiting for the system to depressurize. Each individually contained filter just snaps into place, including the membrane. This four stage reverse osmosis system consists of a stage 1 five micron sediment filter that traps particulate matter like dirt, rust and silt that will affect the taste and appearance of your water. Stage 2 is a five micron carbon block filter that reduces chloramines, chlorine as well as other materials that cause bad taste and odors, these are called PRE-filters because they filter in front of the reverse osmosis membrane. Stage 3 is the heart of the reverse osmosis system, the RO Membrane. This 50-Gallon per day semi permeable membrane will effectively reduce TDS, total dissolved solids, Sodium and a wide range of contaminants such as Lead, Arsenic, Perchlorate, Chromium, Copper and Radium. It will also remove over 99.95-Percent cysts such as Giardia and Cryptosporidium. The larger production membrane of this state of the art system also means this system has been designed to reduce Nitrates and Nitrites from your drinking water. It is important that this system is properly installed and maintained with a minimum incoming water pressure of 40 psi for it to operate as designed. Stage 4 is a high quality carbon filter, this is called a POST-filter because it filters after the membrane. The filtered water passes through the membrane and enters the 3-Gallon storage tank. When you're ready for a taste, it will leave the storage tank and pass through this fourth stage on its way up to the faucet. Crystal clear, high quality and great tasting water! It is system tested and certified by the WQA by the WQA against NSF/ANSI Standard 58. The Watts RO Pure Annual Filter Pack is $55. Seems like it could be the same model as the Atlantic Blue system, but with different color filters. Seems like this might be the best way to go. Please steer me in the right direction, if you have any thoughts. TIA.

Did I mention we got an energy report? We saw that our bills were comparable to the past tennants 12 month history. Our utility bill states we are using about the average amount of energy compared to other homes this size in our zip code. and the energy report came from utility company? of course your bills will be comperable. consider the source of info. utility info is biased to favor utility co. same with the audits they provide...10-15% savings max as compared to 30%+ with independent evaluation. my clients save 50% on average once my recommendations are completed and work is verified & tested. without blower door & duct testing...it is just a guess as to where the house/ducts/returns leak. air sealing is the best savings. cheap to do, immediate results..long term benefit depending upon the life of the sealant (use caulk..expands contracts unlike foams) duct sealing next best savings. average homes have 30% duct loss. a bucket of mastic & a morning spent sealing ducts also has long term benefit with immeidate results. beating the heat before it enters the house trumps changing windows & doors. awnings, plantings, and solar screens. once the heat is inside..then you pay to cool it. the down side to 'average billing' is that at the end of the averaged cycle, you pay the amount you went over the average. for some people this can be a real problem. never insulate before air sealing. insulation filters air it doesn't stop it. only foam insulation stops air leakage and insulates. not great stuff... best of luck.