I bought one and it has run great, the only time it sputters is when the cutting line is getting short. I tap the head get more line to feed out and the sputter is gone. My spec sheet calls for 20w-50 oil. My experiance with most chinese made gas motors (which is probably most that we find available these days) is that they test run them at the factories then ship them leaving some gas in the fuel system, and since from test run, shipping, to sale is usually several months this allows the fuel system and residual gas in it to lacquer up. On anew purchase I usually put some rubbing alchohol in the fuel tank, then take the spark plug out, prime the fuel system, pull the start cord till I smell rubbing alchohol coming out of the spark plug hole. Then I let it sit a day so, the rubbing alchohol dissolves the lacquer, then I put gas in and start it up. I never have problems using this procedure. If you have lacquer gumming up your jets you can adjust the carb all you want but it will never run right!!

Remember: Check oil on a clean wiped dip-stick! If you just pull it out to check it and don't wipe it and dip it again and pull it out, you'll be seeing the oil that was splashed on it during the previous operation of the engine! Especially if an engine that gets run a lot. As for the plastic gears--i don't worry about that kind of stuff--i figger the engineers that designed the plastic gears were much better educated than me, so they did sell a lot of those engines! An, with proper care, Tecumseh engines will last as long as B&S! A guy gave me a used Tecumseh, 10 h.p. engine, Industrial model, for my older Snapper rider. I put it on and it runs great. Been on it 4 years now, and no problems. I bought a Sears tractor, $25, with a cracked frame, put the B&S engine on my big Snapper Hi-vac rider, and it seems very happy there! Neighbor gave me his tractor--blew the engine on it, i installed a used engine-runs and drives! Do i worry about plastic cam gears?? No--no worry!

starrah3, by now you may have given up on the "project", but in case you still are pursuing a solution I will try to "cover" some of the points in your last post. ...................................................... ***"adjuster balls (they feel a little loose when they are screwed onto the pivot screws"*** Well, they should "be free" enough to turn on the threads of the pivot stud, but they should NOT just "slide up and down" across the threads of the stud. Are the "set lock" jamb screws present (Refer to the "exploded illustration", one set screw per adjuster "ball")? If the "set lock" screws are missing, the adjuster ball will simply "unthread" itself during engine operation. ........................................................ ***"the rocker arm was wobbling all over the place"*** That one is a little hard to pinpoint exactly what you are "seeing". What you are describing sounds like the pivot stud is "loose in the cylinder head". If true, the stud might have "pulled the threads" out of its hole in the head. The repair procedure to "restore threads" is something that "can be done" by a DIY person BUT...If you do not already have the "tool kit" and the neccessary "inserts" to do this (and "most folks" DO NOT), you will be better off having it done in a machine shop or competent automotive shop. The thread restoring technique is usually called "Heli-coiling" or "Heli-coil insert repair". Heli-coil is just ONE trademark brand name and style of "insert style" thread restoration method. ........................................................... ***"I've heard that valves are generic, and need to be fitted to each engine"*** I certainly would like to have been present when that comment was offered to your ears. Generic? NO! Made to a "default factory standard or specification? Yes! In the case of your OHV engine, you will very likely be able to use the new valves "right out of the wrapper". The comment about "fitting to each engine", is only true in cases of "F-head" style engines, wherein "grinding the tip of the valve stem" is the ONLY way to affect proper valve lash adjustment (your OHV engine uses adjustable rockers to affect valve lash adjustment). Other instances where "custom fitting" of new valves might be required, would apply where the valve seat in the cylinder head was worn, cracked, or burned, and needed regrinding or replacement. I do not infer that your engine has a problem in the valve seats, so you should be able to just "pop in" a new valve and go. I do, however, suggest that you "check the contact pattern" of each valve and valve seat by doing a very light "valve lapping" procedure using valve lapping compound. Here again, you might want to relegate this to a competent shop (automotive or small engine type). Please post back with the "latest news".

Well, all of those books were written by PEs and I've got the IRC 2003 which deals with this subject. I'm not discounting the value of a PE but it is naive to assume they don't over-engineer. Or maybe you can explain why the footing on my residential foundation is designed to be three (!) feet wide, 18 inches thick with two parallel rebar mats for a two story residential structure where the footings sit on 5000 psi limestone (yes, this was excavated all the way to bedrock, which luckily was essentially flat and at the exact required depth - this was known before excavation and foundation design due to geotechnical soil analysis). I don't have to be a structural engineer (I'm an engineer, though) to know that this is a CYA design. Back on topic: The structural engineer that I work with also charges by the hour and each phone call results in a new bill with similar costs as the OP mentioned.