I thought the shelf had been formed by a 2x4 on its edge. The shelf should be OK as it is. If the cavity is 1 inch the overhang would be 1 1/8" and the brick bearing would be 2 1/2" or 69% of its full width. If the cavity is 1 1/4" the overhang would be 1 3/8" and the brick bearing would be 2 1/4" or 62% of its full width. 69% would be better than 62% but either should work if the mason knows what he is doing. Don't forget to take the thru-wall flashing from behind the sheathing all the way to the face of the brick with a downward step in the cavity and install weeps in the vertical joints at the first course every 24". If the brick shelf is greater in height than 1 1/2" the first 2 or 3 bricks can be gradually corbelled outward and fully grouted to the wall with the flashing installed higher than the shelf when the cavity has reached its intended size, as long as the flashing at the brick is lower than the stud wall plate (which is the primary purpose of the brick shelf). A skilled mason can build a 3/4" cavity taking care to not allow mortar to drop into the cavity or protrude on the back side but it is not easy. Hanging a wood strip with wires in the cavity and drawing it upward as the work progresses is the best way to keep the cavity clear. Make sure the brick ties have a drip or are angled downward and outward to prevent water from traveling from the back of the brick to the sheathing where the fastener can present an opportunity for water penetration. This is a common problem in home building because masons often like to install corrugated ties to the sheathing sticking upward and then bend them down onto the brickwork as needed creating a perfect path for water penetration. It can be just as bad if the ties are rotated into the proper position because that usually damages the weather barrier. Stainless steel wire ties with a drip have been standard in commercial work for 25 years but because of the additional cost and labor they are not often used in houses. It is impossible and pointless to distinguish between cheapness and ignorance on a building site; they work so very well together.

There should be at least 3" of ledge support for the brick veneer. If the ledge is insufficient, for whatever reason, you may have to have a metal ledge anchored into the wall. Its size and slope should be determined by an engineer. The mortar is only a cosmetic repair.

My thoughts exactly - Although this board member seems to think a patch and cover job will suffice for both the flashing and the foundation sill. In my mind - we've got 55 years without major hassle and very little maintenance. It's time to upgrade, and nickel and diming is not the right approach when it comes to exterior water protection. :S

Agree with Mark, post-tension slabs must be evaluated and the designer must determine that. That said, the cable runs throughout the slab, and I'm sure they installed it according to the specs with proper spacing and right embedment depth so it shouldn't be a problem. The crack you see, this usually happens from pulling the forms especially if they did that the same day they poured concrete... With post-tension cables, the forms should be removed the next day because of the brackets attached to the forms during the concrete placement. Also, usually, you wait at least 7 days before doing cable tension... some do pre-tension after about 4 days and complete tension after another 5-6 days depending on what the specs call for. Good luck