Do you have an automatic transmission? If so, could it be the lock-up clutch cycling on and off? Also, check out the engine mount/arm that counteracts torque. Some torque reaction 'thunks' can be felt when the bushings are beat out. However, if this is a case of engine cut-out, its a good case for taking it to a qualified shop for diagnostics. You may be replacing parts at random while missing the true problem.

"Sticker shock" is a problem in the automotive industry worldwide, the car-makers could and should do something about it. They must improve their attitudes. IMO, it is possible to rebuild these devices, and many other components as well. Rebuilt engines and transmissions are offered to the benefit of the consumer. The trouble is greed, the dealers would much rather profit $30 or more on a new EGR as compared to $3 or less on individual parts..And what is to say that the old EGR is not cleanable... But, the downside is that a vehicle with many ,many more rebuildable parts will cost yet more money to buy, but will be cheaper to service, as if cars are not yet expensive enough !! They should use a comprehensive computerized parts systems to maximize availably and profits..In the past, thousands of dollars of parts sat around, collected dust and were eventually scrapped or sold at a loss.. Install the new EGR, this will take an hour, attitudes will take a century to change..

To make sure I was understanding this valve, I mounted it within the suggested depth range and put a piece of wood up that's the thickness of the wall, to simulate a finished wall surface. I put the trim kit on and it all looks good but the screws that attach the inner trim piece to the valve body, (the finish trim piece snaps onto the inner piece), are too long! You can see that there are two sets of mounting holes on the valve. The ones at the tips of the butterfly wings don't work with the trim kit I have. The lower ones do work, but they're lined up with the valve body, which gets in the way of tightening the screws all the down. No problem to go out and buy a couple shorter ones but still, why would Grohe provide screws that are too long. Makes me wonder if I'm doing something wrong. I'm guessing Grohe hasn't idiot proofed this installation. So, I guess I'm looking for a validation of my thinking - that all's well and I just need shorter screws. Thanks, Bill

I have Asko W6222 washer (purchased in Australia) sold here as cold water supply only. I wish to fit a hot-water valve and control circuit to it. In principal, quite easy for me as I am very experienced electronics technician, with the necessary skills. I do 'component-level' electronics work. However it is easier, if I have the electronics PCB schematic. Could do without it but that is a drudge! Asko parts manual only shows PCB, as a bare block with wires attached! Does anyone here know where that schematic drawing is available? Thanks for any clues or hints. Regards all, Clive Judd.