Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I checked the belts and the drive belt had come off of the pulley. I put it back in place and she runs like a dream. Thanks agan!!

I had that problem with an old Murray here. I got it from my Bro-in-law, then gave it to my son, who gave it back 5 years later, saying the tranny won't shift and the handle came off. So, out came the tranny, i took out the broken handle bolt, fixed it right, reinstalled the tranny, started it up, and went to mow. Tried to stop it, and it wouldn't stop, stayed in gear, i could not find neutral, and cutch didn't have any effect! Well, the engine now reposes in another tractor, and the rest is in line for the junk yard! Its a shame, because the body parts and tires are really good, but---alas and alack--its time!

I have encountered this problem on many vehicles in the shop i work at and it might be normal for a brake pedal to travel quite a bit when your are at idle in park. However, you would never press the pedal that hard or as far down when driving. You would end up through the windshield for sure. In my experience your particular vehicle has this weird feeling pedal travel when you are idling in park but the brakes perform as they should when driving. Air in the hydraulic system would cause a spongy feeling not a fading pedal, so bleeding is not likely to fix the problem. if there is in fact a failure in the system I would be checking to see if the ABS module is bypassing fluid pressure by blocking off the master cyl. if the pedal is high and firm( no travel) I would then block off the flex hoses and check for pedal height and drop. if this is ok un-block one flex hose at a time and see how much drop if there is a substantial drop at a certain wheel I would verify the hydraulic circuit to that wheel. first by bleeding to see if there is any air. Then I would put my attention to the hydraulic unit. Though I am confident that this is how these vehicles are and you don't have anything to be concerned about. Hope it works out

Tom, there is nothing holding the tractror back. Not sure WHY you cannot grasp this.....so ill try another way. Think of a manual car or truck. Depress the clutch all the way in, to the floor and slowwwly release the clutch pedal while in first gear. Usually, on just about every manual transmission ive driven, the fri tion plate will start to grab the clutch disks half way thru the pedal travel. Or approximately half way from floor to the full release of the pedal. My tractor used to operate EXACTLY like this. Slowly, over the years, the pedal has risen higher and higher in order for me to get movement/friction in the clutch to get the tractor moving. In my current situation, i push my tractor pedal all the way in, and slowwly release the pedal. It starts grabbing or providing friction ONLY the very last inch or so. That is why it jerks so hard. The brake/clutch adjustment is all the way adjusted. The dri e belt is OEM,nothi g is clogged or off pulleys. As stated this has been a slow/gradual process of me losing my clutch pedal. Someone mentioned changing the blade belt may firm back up the clutch pedal to where it engages at mid travel. Thoughts?