When a shop posts a help request similar to what is above, the normal reply is to tell them to substitute a known good technician. VBG... Test this and change that is not how to diagnose and repair a problem like this, well, by now you probably realize that because it simply doesn't work. Now sure there are times that this method does work, and occasionally you don't even spend a fortune doing it. But as a pro, you'd fail so often you would not last as a technician. A "noid" light is not an accurate test of the systems ability to turn the injectors on. The injectors initially start to draw current at such a level that if they were allowed to stay turned on long enough they would each draw twenty amps+ of current. To prevent overheating the injectors the computer uses what is called a peak and hold system. How it works is one transistor (also referred to as a "driver") turns on and starts to open the injector. Once a sufficient current flow is reached, a second transistor turns on that has a resistor in series with it, the first transistor turns off and that limits the current flow to around 1.8 amps. The "peak" part of the voltage waveform causes the injector to open, and the hold portion allows the injector to remain open long enough to dispense the right amount of fuel. A noid light will flash with as little as 1ma, or .001 amps. This type of testing has tricked just about everyone who relies on it at least once. The right way is to measure the current flow with a low amps probe an an oscilloscope. You can also use the scope to monitor the ground side of the injector to watch for both drivers signatures, and their inductive kick on turn off which is an indicator of the strength of the magnetic field that was created when the computer turned the injector on. Now just because current is flowing that does not mean that the injectors physically opened, nor does having fuel pressure guarantee there is fuel at the injectors under sufficient pressure to be injected into the engine. There are screens on the injectors themselves that serve as a last defense filters, as well as there is usually an inlet screen to the throttle body just inside of the fuel inlet nut. Once you prove that electrically the injectors should be opening, by measuring the current flow with them connected, and/or measuring their inductive kick. Plus you re-confirm that there is fuel pressure, AND volume. Then you have proven that problem is inside the throttle body, and you will need to take it apart to find out what is going on.

What threw me was that you said you had a throttle body injector and most of those were just one step up from a carburetor. But you mentioned an engine module controller. If you have an engine module controller, likely you also have an IACS ( idle air controller). The IACS with the engine controller adjusts the engine idle speed. A serious vacuum leak can upset this system and this may be your problem. Find that leak. Many of the little plastic fittings in the vacuum hoses are restrictors - these have small calibrated holes to restict the amount of air flow. One such restrictor is in the vacuum feed to the heater/AC system that operates the various actuators in the air plenums. Thus, if any of these hoses gets pulled off, the amount of vacuum leak is restricted. Lean out problems may occur if any of these restrictor fittings have been replaced with standard straight-through fittings. Places for vacuum leaks: o Tubing o Fittings o Vacuum bottle (often on or near the fire wall) o Power brake o Vapor recovery system o Any AC vacuum operated parts such as a hot water diverter valve located in the heater hoses. If you can hear the leak, this helps in your search. I am not familar with the system for '88 Chevys. I had an older 1980 Chevrolet Citation, V6 2.8 L and I recall that it had a peculiar vacuum control. The vacuum was limited to say 16 inches. When the vacuum exceeded this value, a valve allowed air to enter the intake which leaned the mixture severely and stopped combustion. This was done to prevent backfiring in the exhaust and blowing off the converter. This came into play mostly when slowing down or comming down a hill with a closed throttle with the engine was in engine braking mode. This never gave any trouble, but could have if it stuck open. Good luck. Let us know what you find.

Yeah, it's a gamble but nothing ventured nothing gained I guess. If the fridge side gets to temp I think we're willing to take the risk for a couple hundred. The interior is immaculate and I'd like to try it. The space inside would be awesome.

How old are the units again? I realize that you do not want to replace all of them, but more often than not, the condition of one is indicative of the condition (or impending condition) of the rest. In this case, it is not like this unit was behind a tree, bush, or subjected to any more weather or moisture than was likely experienced by the other units. Might be time for a careful inspection of the remaining units and look at the project, unfortunately, in more totality. This is not the rule, just an observation. Hopefully the other units are just fine at the end of the day.