Welcome to the forum, snailprincess! I'll list the plants, & you can compare to yours to match up/figure which is which. Kalanchoe tomentosa Crassula ovata 'Gollum' Echeveria (2 of them-grey-looking), hard to say, maybe post again after they've been growing under lights for a while Echeveria 'Black Prince' Sempervivum Crassula ovata Echeveria 'Topsy Turvy' Sedum rubrotinctum Crassula ovata 'Tricolor' Sedum japonica 'Gold Dots' The tall, etiolated guy on the right ~don't know~wait, grow on, post again Sprig of something out front of pot-?-maybe a Sedum Nice collection!

On the other hand... I guess the pipe dope could be the cause of the blockage. If I remember correctly, the pressure of the gas in the pipe is actually very low...less than the pressure created when blowing bubbles through a straw in a glass of milk. If there is a blockage of pipe dope, the gas pressure likely is too low to clear the blockage.

What your tech did is to install a sediment trap or 'dirt leg' on the gas line. It is not only common, it is a Code requirement to prevent dirt or flakes of metal from the inside of the pipe from clogging the gas inlet to any appliance. This dirt leg is installed so that it can be easily removed for cleaning in the event it does become full. See the link below and scroll to partion that defines a sediment trap as used in architecture. Here is a link that might be useful: Sediment Trap

Most ppl erroneously believe their line starts at the meter, but that is not correct. When we install a new gas service the gas company will inform us where our final connection to the "gas main" will be located. Normally the property owner is then responsible for installing a line from the structure to within a specified distance from the main, usually on the utility easement on the front of the property, about 4' to 5' from the municipal main where they will install a "Curb stop valve". The curb stop is the point of demarcation between the gas company line and the homeowners line. The gas company will also inform us where the meter is to be located. It may be near the street, adjacent to the exterior of the building or is may be inside the structure, such as in a basement or utility area. An exception to that may occur if the gas companies line has a higher pressure and they install a pressure reducing valve at the meter, in which case the homeowners line may begin at the meter. For the purpose of sizing line we must measure the "TDL" (Total developed length) of the line from the designated point of demarcation to the furthest gas appliance or demand. TDL is determined by adding the actual physical length of the line plus the "Fitting insertion loss" of each fitting on the line. To find the fitting insertion loss we have to consult a "fitting insertion loss table" for the specific type of pipe being used. The table will list each type of fitting and express the loss as an equivalent length of straight pipe, by example it might say a 45el has a fitting loss of 0.4ft and a 90el might be 0.7ft. Under most codes they will allow us to compute TDL by multiplying the actual physical length by 1.20%. Example, if you have a total of 100ft from the point of demarcation to the furthest demand the line length would be 100' x 1.20% = 120ft. We would then compute the total load in cf/hr and check the table for the load and TDL to determine the correct line size. In regards to whether you can install a union in your crawl space, you will really have to check with your inspector. Normally if the crawl space is open to atmosphere there would be no problem, but, if your crawlspace has a skirting around the house with an access door that would normally be considered a concealed location. The concern is that you could have a gas leak and the gas would collect under the house unnoticed and potentially create an explosive hazard.