So I just got my Philips Ceramic Metal Halide ED-17 MHC/150/U/4K Bulb and I was reading another thread here and it seems that I was confused and I'm not supposed to be getting a magnetic ballast after all, but rather, a pulse-start electronic ballast. Zink - I saw your post about MH references and I'm going to check it out because I'm completely confused now....while I want to just get a ready built plug and play ballast, I'm too poor to do that so I think I need to go with the kit idea...and I've seen a good link I think from object16 that tells you how to wire the thing so that should be okay. The bulb says 'universal' operating position..does that mean that it can't be mounted horizontally? I will need to do some more research on what exactly I need - I never knew this was so complicated! That's a good idea about getting stuff from utility companies but I don't think I know enough about this to be able to tell them what I want. :S As for the socket, I thought mogul sockets were bigger than medium ones...? or is a mogul socket the same as that special ceramic-encased socket you were talking about before? Thanks for all the help - I'm good with plants and I'm good with biology but I just seem to get stupid when it comes to electronics. -Calvin

Hi, to make an MH ballast into an HPS ballast, you buy the ballast kit from HTG supply for $55. This is a universal conversion kit. It includes a transformer, capacitor, ignitor, brackets and screws, probably some wire, connectors, a mogul socket, and full set of instructions. You will remove several parts of your existing ballast: you will need to open the case, remove the innards, and substitute them with the new ones. You will keep the case, the plug and cord that you use to plug the ballast into the wall, and the cord that runs from the ballast to your octagon box with mogul socket. All the rest is replaced, so you are left over with an MH transformer and a few other goodies, that you will no longer use, because they have become obsolete. HTG claims they include PROPER INSTRUCTIONS, so I believe them. Now enjoy the beauty of CMH, you and your plants will love it. For 55$ for the kit, and $50 for the lamp, you have a winner that will beat the pants off the AgroMax, AND you will be able to run a reflectorized 400w HPS lamp to boot, should you so choose. You will also be using a 1000W agromax MH lamp, which is a real monster of a workhorse and a beauty of a lamp, for only $70, that's a bargain. I wouldn't change that part at all. It will be generating heat of course, but hopefully your greenhouse is attached to your house, so the heat from the lamp will both keep your greenhouse a pleasant temperature, and also moderate you house heating cost somewhat. Total lumens = 95,000 + 95,000 + 32,000 = 222,000 lumens This is a serious amount of light. What is the square footage of the garden anyway - this amount of light would be good for 90 square feet of vegetative phase growth, and 30+ square feet of cannabis in the flowering phase. Nice. :) Sativa.

I've read and reread recommendations for the best combination of florescents to promote the growth of tom and pepper seedlings. I was heavily infuenced by the results shown on wayneScmidt's site that was originally referenced above. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words and in that test, the ge plant and aq won leaves up. It's also interesting, as object16 pointed out, that the kitchen and bath finished a close second especially because it was not a so called plant light. I will in all liklihood go with 3 ge plant and aq for best growth qualities and 1 kitchen and bath to enhance brightness (lumens) and to capitalize on whatever else that caused a second place finish in the comparison test. Last but not least, I am impressed that that the pl and aq cost only $5.97 at walmart compared to $6.84 for kit and bath. The ott and phillips plant lights cost $10 at homedepot. I have copied an excerpt from an interesting post that I read on another site below that convinced me to add the 1 flo for lumens. "I put a couple of the "Plant and Aquariums" (40W) above a newly set up 55G and the tank really looked dim. They have so much energy nearly out of the visible spectrum that they need a *lot* of Watts for comfortable viewing (i.e., to get the lumens up). Otherwise, they look to me to be pretty white, but just a tad magenta or purplish in color. I added one "cool white" and it was as if I had quadrupled the illumination. The tank has a lot of irridescent fish, and the plants and fish just became dazzling. The "P/A" tubes probably provide plenty of plant energy, and the "cool white" lots of viewing light. The trick is to get a nice balance that grows plants and also looks good. Since plants and eyes have different response spectra, I always seem to be happier mixing different tubes to get the results I want."

Gorgeous, thanks for sharing? We are currently choosing countertops for our kitchen reno and your pictures are selling me on Superwhite! Questions: 1. What edge did you use on your counters? 2. What is the height between your countertop and the bottom of your cabinets? I think 18 inches is standard, yours look a bit higher which is what we are thinking of doing in our new kitchen. 3. Do you know the company that made your cabinet knob hardware, where did you buy it? Thanks much!