I know - its the kind of thing I like to do too. Sounds like the deck is okay. I would keep on using it. CD pack failures are irritating, but when you consider that most people have to buy a new mower long before 9 years, it seems very cheap to operate. Even if you have put new wheels and axles on at about the same frequency as the CD packs, you really are not spending any money on it. And, you can still find the rear-bagging kits and deck plates (blank for discharging, blocked for mulching). Other things you may encounter after such long service are crankshaft end seals popping out or just leaking, the need to rebuild the carb and carbon build-up in the exhaust ports and muffler. I always recommend adding Marvel Mystery oil to the gas in addition to your regular oil mix as well as the use of a fuel stabilizer. If you use Ethanol-blended fuel, get the Stabil Marine for Ethanol Fuels. All engines like MMO, in particular the 2-cycles.

OK, try this just to make sure that something is not obstructing the fuel inlet (needle and seat passage). Connect a short length of fuel hose to the carb fuel inlet nipple. Now try to blow through the hose using your mouth/lungs. With the carb top removed, you should be able to hear the air coming in through the needle/seat. If you can't hear air coming in like that, something is obstructing the fuel inlet or needle/seat area. If you can hear air entering the carb inlet, then you have either a defective fuel pump, or something is wrong with the marine tank/fuel lines. While you have the top off the carb, fill the bowl with gasoline before putting the top back on. When the top is back on, try to start it. If everything is satisfactory with the carb itself, you should get about 30 to 40 seconds run off the fuel in the bowl (your results may vary).

Thanks Weed Cutter I have download the file and going to read it later tonight. That ok about the model airplane, this is more fun and useful. I can play with the motor and get something done. Believe it or not, this is cheaper than the model plane engine stuff if you get into the real fancy brand. I bought some used glow engine on ebay cheap and open it up, I know what you mean about gum. The ring stuck in the grove, ball bearing balls don't run at all!!! Yes I actually went on Navada Walrus (Bob's) page and look at his history, very interesting. How about you, are you very involve in this field also. I am surprised that people in this business like Bob, Canguy, they been in this field for so many years and still have the interest to get on this kind of forum and help people ( newbys) like me. I am an electronic engineer by trade, into gas engine as hobby( model planes cars and now lawn equipments) Anything smell gas, I like it!! I gave my wife all the excuses to buy the best toy for a tiny little 5000sqft yard!!!! BTW, to everyone: I start to do the experiment of putting 30:1 ratio in both my Echo HC150 hedge trimmer and my Shindaiwa EB3410 4 cycle blower. I pull out the plugs and inspect it. I'll do it again after 2 months and see whether it foul up or not and I'll post the result. I am using Shindaiwa One with Sta-Bil in 91 Octane Gas from Chevron. We'll see. I heard about too lean a mixture on 2 cycle or hybrid 4 cycle will hurt the engine because of high temperature and lack of oil in lean mixture. Then the ones with separate oil like Honda trimmer will fare a lot better if the mixture is too lean because the oil supply remain the same and oil will carry heat out even the mixture is too lean. Is this true from your experience? Have a nice evening

That's the part you apparently are looking for:-) Briggs PN 691955 Finding 5 AMP diodes will start getting a bit tougher, thn lower values. RS has some 6A 50 PIV. 4 pack for $2.50. I'm not sure if they are really up to the task, but I guess you could parallel 2 together for each circuit. The alternator is rated to give 28 VAC MINIMUM. Max may approach much higher values. I'd prefer a little larger "cushion", like 100 PIV. These ARE Radio Shack Diodes! See link- Part of my question about the lights, was that if the lights work, you could take THAT diode, reverse it, and use it for a charge diode. Thinking about that however, I wonder that if the diode(s) were shorted, the AC passing through may also operate the headlights (and kill the battery). Most? electric PTO's take around 4+ amps, so a 5 amp supply is going to be strained IMO. If the PTO has been heavily used, you may want to reset the air gap to .012", or at least check it. Supposedly, if the air gap gets too large, it can cause it to draw more current. Something that does kind of surprise me is a 30 amp fuse for that size charging system. Do you have a voltmeter to check things. It would probably be a good idea if you "make" your own rectifier! Make sure you have somewhat reasonable values before you hook everything up. Here is a link that might be useful: Link