Not familiar with a Viking oven door but on most mass produced thin stainless steel residential ranges the outside of the door is kept rigid by being under tension and requires a selection of soft clamps and a suitably prepared work area for proper disassembly and reassembly that won't cause the metal panel to bend at the attaching points. Try to dig up more information. Try to find a parts diagram. If the door is quite heavy on its own with lots of bolts holding it together it may not be too difficult. But if it feels fairly light in weight, opening it up it may be like triggering a mousetrap.

dave1812: "hydrogen peroxide ... Dry Oxi Clean contains sodium percarbonate and sodium carbonate. How does that differ in action, from the liquid version? ... different active ingredients..." I suggest you read up on sodium percarbonate (see, e.g., the article linked below) which probably will answer all of your questions. You will find that -- essentially -- sodium percarbonate is anhydrous (dry) hydrogen peroxide; it is, in fact an intermediate chemical in the commercial production of hydrogen peroxide. The liquid hydrogen peroxide you can buy in brown bottles at the drug store usually is a 3% solution of H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide); that is, the liquid is 97% water by weight. The bottles that liquid H2O2 is sold in are brown because, exposed to sunlight, H2O2 breaks down to water and oxygen gas. The "extra" oxygen atom in a molecule of H2O2 is what oxidizes (bleaches) clothing or teeth or disinfects wounds. Most of the contents of a package of Clorox2 or Oxi-Clean comprises fillers. You can purchase nearly pure sodium percarbonate from chemical supply houses for a much lower cost per unit of active ingredient -- the same active ingredient of the filler-burdened Clorox2 and Oxi-Clean -- than you will pay for an equivalent dose of Clorox2 or OxiClean. The Ecover brand of oxygen bleach is "pure" sodium percarbonate; I put "pure" in quotation marks because exposure to the air inevitably and quickly starts a chemical reaction to reduce purity to about 95%. "Pure" sodium percarbonate such as Ecover or the chemicals that you can buy in bulk is strongly hygroscopic: that is, it absorbs water from the air. If your laundry room is damp, you should store any sodium percarbonate product in a sealed plastic container that you open only to dispense it to your laundry, and then close again. Here is a link that might be useful: Wikipedia article on sodium percarbonate

cplover- Ok...I remember you posting that in another thread. We're talking about the space between the vanity and the fixed glass (not the shower door). :-) I was recently in a modern hotel with a bathroom layout like yours, and the side of the vanity was literally butted against the fixed glass of the shower; as a result, there was no space to worry about. The edge of the vanity was simply caulked where it was against the shower glass. This design has the advantage of maximizing the size of the vanity top. However, if you don't like that design, I'd say you should go for as narrow a space as you can that still allows you to get your hand/arm in there.

A swiffer is a help but it doesn’t seem to get larger particles, not dust, which come from who knows where. Also, any small lego pieces the grandkids happen to accidentally drop and which slide under the sofa. Once something is under there, it’s a massive job to lift the sectional pieces. They also don’t slide. We control clutter and do daily normal cleaning as well as frequent weekly vacuuming, mopping, dusting, etc. in between regular vacuuming, I use a Robot vacuum. Its not a huge deal, just temporarily irritating whem I shine a flashlight under the sectional and see how much debris is under there.