No, you don't have to pull the carb to clean the jet, but prop up the fuel bowl so it doesn't fall off. In that little bolt, there is a large hole that is readily seen in the shank, but there is also a teeny little hole that masquerades as a speck of dirt, also in the shank, not the hole up inside the bolt. Poke in there, and try it! This is the standard Tecumseh fix for those engines, for that problem. Also, check the fuel tank cap to see if the cap might be plugged. the cap has to allow air to get into the carb. If the cap is plugged, you will have an engine starving for fuel. It may run for several seconds, then quit, if the cap is plugged. Leetle bugs love to lay their eggs in any little hole. Look at anything that has been laying outside for some time. you might see every hole filled with mud. not the work of children--the wasps and yellow-jackets tend to do that. Dig one open--you might see a full grown wasp in the hole, or nearly so!

I've been designing my kitchen in an old house and have looked at different several range options because of challenging design issues. I'm not real clear about your layout with the pennisula and the offset of it from the corner. Ideally, you should have a minimum of 18" counter space on one side and 12" on the other. I've decided to put my stove where the sink is and put the sink in an island. Don't get a commercial restaurant range what ever you do. They are not made for residential use and pose greater clearance and ventilation issues. They aren't self cleaning. It is code for GAS TOP cooktops (check your county or state) to have 6" of non combustible material the back and sides of the stove top, whether there is a wall at the back it or not. If you have no wall behind the range and no wall within 6" of either side, you could get a slide in range with pop-up hood (ventilation) Thermador makes a good one, but not cheap and takes up room in back of the stove top. A slide in possibly with IKEA's stainless child protector that sits on the front of a stove top, but I don't see why you couldn't use it at the back if you have even the tiniest ledge for it to sit on. It is just a 3-sided piece of stainless, about 6" tall and totally removable. Make sure that you get a range with ventilation to the outside, whether it is a slide-in with a downdraft, pop-up or hood. Does anyone think keeping the oven open a bit till it cools would help with the moisture and/or oxidation problem? Most ovens should be kept open while broiling, don't they? All ranges are made to install into cabinets with wood, so I doubt that the sides or the range itself are an issue. The clearance specs most likely refer to the stove top. You should check out the IKEA catalog online or go to a showroom if feasible for small space design ideas. They also have their own appliances made by whirlpool, but no dual fuel. Sealed burners can't be repaired and are expensive parts. But a sealed range top under the burners are a different story, make cleaning easier and stuff from getting into the oven section. All ovens vent some heat and moisture somewhere. In a free standing range there is usually an opening behind the cook top under the back control(?) panel. Wiping spills and splashes in the oven quickly with water and vinegar will help keep the enamel from corroding. self cleaning can only do so much, and it's not practical to use it too often. A silicone liner on the bottom is great for containing spills from the oven bottom. Anyone know of a product out there to inhibit rust and corrosion that is non-combustible? Maybe something for salt water boats? I think all of the ranges out there are crap. The electronics _ _ _ _! and are probably made to last until the extended warranty expires. Sometimes they last! Parts come from China with the exception of the upper range of American made products like Wolf. Good Luck!

A ductwork system, especially in new construction with lowest cost mechanicals, is not going to be sufficient for a 3 ton unit. The variable speed blower will try to overcome some issues, and could cause more noise. If this company neglects this important aspect to the system, look elsewhere. But they are quoting you a nice system (good to see they are using the best matching indoor unit with tin-plated coil--shows they know how to match a system well at least) at a reasonable cost considering all that's involved. You still should get a couple other quotes. Don't be afraid to explore other brands besides Carrier. The Infinity system is nice, and so is the zoning, but at a lower cost you can probably achieve similar if not the same results with another manufacturer using third party controls. Carrier has a big name in the industry with their Infinity system but I think there are good comfort solutions elsewhere as well worth looking into. The Infinity zoning is it's own thing, so would need to be incorporated into the Infinity control system. If they want to charge you $2.2k that better include full testing (with static pressure measurements taken) to ensure proper airflow with minimal resistance if they think the ductwork in place is proper. The 16.5 SEER heat pump is the 25HNA6. Little different unit because it has a different compressor type, which is actually preferable for zoning apps because it uses a 50% capacity on low stage rather than around 70% with the 25HNA9. But, I dislike the fact that the compressor must "stop" to switch stages, presumably giving it more wear and tear (my opinion, not sure if anyone else feels the same way).

I'm just going to guess. " Considering it is a wet system, shouldn’t there have been water in the system at all times? " yes. " Considering it was so cold a few weeks before, shouldn’t the pipe have frozen and burst then? " yes. " Could an air pressure test cause a large crack in the pipe? " No. Usually it isn't that much pressure. And the idea is to let it sit for a while and see if it leaks down. My guess is that they never repressurized the system after the fix 5 years ago.