I guess the fan motor is as good as any to discuss the problem. The one on my car is the original one from Dodge and has lasted 19 years and 220,000 miles. I buy my cars new and keep them until they die. This one is a 1990 Dodge caravan where all the seats except the front 2 have been removed making it ideal for transporting orchids to shows and meetings. To get a replacement from the Dodge dealer is $160, just for the stupid little motor. The car parts dealers have fan motors for about $25 to $35 but not my particular one which is a 'Dealer only' item what ever the H--- that means. It means officially sanctioned rip-off. By fixing mine they saved me way over $100. If I could get a Chinese one for $20 like you Arthurm, I would, for my car that just did not work out. My main complaint is about the radiator which was declared 'non-repairable' because it has a plastic top part. New radiators (probably made in China) were pushed on me for $100 to $150 plus $70 plus for labor. The fix it guys solved everything for $90 out the door by FIXING the existing parts. That's what I would like to see more of. A much more egrarious example was a repair I had on a Mercedes 500 SEL, about 10 years old. That car has since died and is in Mercedes heaven (Junk yard). About 10 years ago it failed smog and was declared to need a new catalytic converter. The big V8 has 2 exhaust pipes, connected in 2 places which each have 3 chambers for the exhaust treatment. From the engine backwards it starts with a pre-muffler, then the muffler and last the catalytic converter. That's a total of 6 units, one of which needed to be replaced. I went to the Mercedes dealer and asked for the needed part. They told me that the entire exhaust system is sold as one unit, both pipes with their 6 chambers for $1,800 plus about $500 for labor! Again off to Alameda street where with a hack saw they cut off the catalytic converter and welded an after market unit in place for a total cost of $120. Now it was no longer a Mercedes parts only car but who cares, it passed smog and my wallet did not take a major hit. I just simply won't stand for the kind of rip off the car dealers consider 'normal business practice'. Nick

Not familar with JD sabre, but you don't need headlights other than to see with in the dark. You can check the bulbs with a muiltmeter or look for the filment stright broken across the two little prog inside the bulb and there is usually a discolorization of the bulb when it burns out. Head light switch should be on the dash, or maybe they are light them chevies burn all the time? Which is probably why the don't work, maybe the previous owner removed them? If you want to know for sure follow the wires. As far as charging goes it better without lights cause that is a drain on the charging system. Seat shutoff switch is like a light switch either it's on or off and there for your protection in case of roll over or you getting off and you foot sliding under the deck. I would pick up the yard before I mow. I'll let someone else tell you how to do that

If you have the owner's manual, there should be directions in there on how to get the old bulb out, as well as exactly which model of bulb you need to replace it with. You also can go to your FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store), tell them you have an '05 Blazer, and they can look up which bulb you need. Generally, you will have a bulb holder which either screws into or locks into the back of the headlight itself. It may be kinda tough to get in there unless you move something else a bit. Two words of advice: 1) Don't touch the bulb! Oils from your skin (or grime from the engine, for that matter) will severely reduce the life of the bulb. And 2) Don't buy those stupid blue bulbs. They may look spiffy, but they don't provide as much usable light for you and they are harsh on the eyes of those who have to look at your headlights. I've had good experience with Sylvania's "extended range" or whatever bulbs. They're a strong, clear white.

Your making to many assumptions here. What could a battery have to do with the engine overheating? It sounds like you have a coolant leak, and antifreeze is spraying out, hitting the battery, and the belts. This could easily cause the belts to slip if they are worn and not tight, hence the battery lamp. Of course accidently giving the alternator a drink of engine coolant won't make it very happy either, VBG. The hammering sound is something you have to simply follow with your ears to locate, it could have been the coolant flashing on hot spots in the engine from the overheating. At the same time, you could easily be losing a belt driven component, and it could be the source of the noise, as well as the cause of the overheating, and the alternator stopping charging. The main thing to think about is the headlight replacement probably had nothing at all to do with this issue. Cars simply break whenever they want to.