Lots of people think coffee and tea are "tonics", but they would be wrong. Forum discussions frequently center on the question of adding dilute coffee/tea or grounds to plants as a 'tonic', but Arabica (coffee) and Camellia (tea) are known for their toxic alkaloid (caffeine) content and their allelopathic affect on plants as well as autotoxic (poison to their own seedlings) effects on future generations. Caffeine interferes with root development by impairing protein metabolism. This affects activity of an important bio-compound (PPO) and lignification (the process of becoming woody), crucial steps for root formation. We also know that the tannins in both coffee and tea are known allelopaths (growth inhibitors). There are ongoing experiments to develop herbicides using extracts from both coffee and tea that cause me to want to say they might serve better as a nonselective herbicide than as a tonic. I would not use either (stale coffee or tea) by applying directly to my plants - especially containerized plants; nor would I add tea bags/coffee grounds to my container soils. When you ask a plant to live under saturated soil conditions, it complies by forming an airy light root tissue called aerenchyma instead of the parenchyma we usually find when roots are grown in a healthy, well-aerated medium. Problems arise when the plant is put in a position where it's required to go back and forth from 'soggy when the soil is full of water' to well-aerated conditions as the soil is allowed to dry down to the point it again becomes well-aerated. 1 tissue type will serve you well under 1 set of conditions, but poorly when asked to play a dual role. That fact is where growers who expect the plant to do well when transitioning back and forth because, "..... after all, the plant DOES grow well in the riparian settings where it naturally occurs." Overlooked is the fact that Mother Nature doesn't ask in situ plants to adjust to soggy conditions one day and dry the next. A heavy soil in a pan of water that keeps the bottom several inches of soil continually saturated will work, as will a well aerated soil you can keep damp but not soggy - one that can be used to provide a continually damp but well-aerated home for a happy root system, but a heavy soil that goes from soggy for days to almost dry and then back again, will work poorly; this, because the plant isn't programmed with the ability to transition back and forth between both sets of conditions. Al

Start the engine with the gun closed then open it. The unloader will then close allowing water into the hose under pressure.

My Nexxt 700 will not drain, I had a repairman out worked for about two loads. Then followed gassere's excellent instructions from this thread. I can get the machine to work OK for a load or two, then will not drain again. There are no objects that I can find. The machine hums, and sometimes will start draining if I cycle the control a few times, almost as if the pump is a bit stuck. Is there a way to disassemble further without factory expert knowledge? Thanks for any info, Rich

Everclean clumps really well. I've never noticed it stuck on my cat's paws. I use the Booda litter boxes so tracking is minimal but it's really the consistency of most clumping litter. It just contains odors much better and it lasts a lot longer. As mentioned, there's a good amount of dust when you first pour some in but I just keep the cats away from it while it settles so no one is actively inhaling it. I wish I could find a natural litter that works but I haven't been able to. I don't like the idea of them breathing in the dust but the natural stuff just can't control the odor for my 3 cats.