Hi. I just wanted to revive this thread for a bit more clarification. I copied the url for the parts list of my 10323. I have the wire drills bits and am ready to rejet, but wanted to know why the pilot jet is not listed in the parts list. The part number (98-7041) is also not listed. The mainjet is clearly identified and is not a problem, but is there another name for the pilotjet. Slowspeed, idle and 37.5 also do not appear. Does the 10323 simply not have a pilotjet? I haven't looked behind the sticker on the carb yet, so I have no idea yet. Thanks in advance. Regards, Stevan Here is the Link: https://lookup2.toro.com/request/getpub1.cfm?PubID=13009&PubNum=3321-570&Lang=EN&Cust=anonymous_user&xCaller=lawnboy&Filesize=2394941&vKey=1983392&PubType=11

Annette, I picked up Great Gardens of England from the library Tuesday and have watched all four DVDs. Although I enjoyed walking through all those gardens and listening to their owners comments, this video set wasn't what I was expecting. I guess I thought I'd be going to gardens like Sissinghurst or the ones at very large estates or public gardens in England, with huge castles and a maze or two. But glad I watched them before I purchased the set. Sure do give a person a wealth of ideas though, plus I was amazed that the gardeners did all that tending and work themselves! Simply gorgeous borders, and the woodland gardens were wonderful. Those were my favorites I think. All that planning and designing, whew. Thanks for the heads up on this DVD set. My cousin saw it on the "hold" shelf at the library before I picked it up and wrote me a note saying "I wished that I had reserved this!"

At 265f your engine is seriously overheating. The fact that it cools down when you stop suggests first that the cooling fan is running, which you should easily be able to verify just by looking. It also suggests that you have either a coolant flow, or air flow problem as the main issue. Question, is the plastic air dam that fits below the radiator support under the front of the car in place? This air dam forces air up through the radiator, while also helping to create a low pressure area behind the radiator in order to help force as much air as possible through the radiator. The coolant fan is not part of the problem when you are driving. By design it turns off at about 25mph, because there is more air going through the front of the car by then than the fan could ever pull. Check for debris that could be blocking airflow through the condenser and/or radiator. Things such as leaves, cottonwood poplar "cotton", paper, cardboard etc could restrict airflow and prevent the system from cooling the engine. From here we get into the possibilities that the engine isn't actually overheating and maybe the gage is bad. Is the computer system turning on the check engine light? If so you should see a P0114 setting. A technician with a scan tool would be watching the coolant sensor's temperature input to the PCM. A technician would also directly measure the engine temperature with an infrared thermometer. With reported problems like this damage to the water pump impeller potentially comes into play, however traditionally GM does not use plastic impellers as many of the imports do. Many imported vehicles suffer failure of the plastic impellers and that results in the pump not actually being able to pump the engine coolant fast enough to allow the engine to cool under load. But it may still cool when stopped and idling. A thermostat frozen in one position could do this, but they are usually over replaced in practice, with the person doing the work ensuring to fill the coolant system fully, so it then appears that replacing the thermostat fixed the overheating, when in fact the system was actually low on coolant for an as yet undetermined cause. I don't expect there to be a connection to the missfire/backfire and the overheating situation. UNLESS, the engine is not actually overheating, and there is found to be a reason that sensor inputs to the computer are being corrupted in some fashion.

Your success with solving the high idle complaint will come easier with a good plan of attack. The first thing to determine is whether the high idle is caused by a mechanical issue, such as a faulty IAC, or a throttle plate that is not closing, or if the idle speed is actually being commanded high by the computer. One of the easiest ways to do that is to simply unplug the IAC with the truck at idle, and allow the engine to slow to the "minimum air rate" or base idle speed. There is no published spec, but if your minimum idle speed is in the 500-600rpm range in park, thats close enough. There is no normal service adjustments required, but if something is keeping the throttle plate from closing, then you'll have to correct that. Most likely, when you unplug the IAC, you will find either a normal minimum idle, or no change at all. If there is no change, and the throttle is not sticking open, suspect air is getting around the throttle plate, which could be a bad IAC, because thats exactly what it does, it allows air to enter the engine around the throttle plate. Normally the computer has complete control of the IAC, but it can fail mechanically, so it must be checked. The last senario has the idle speed being correct when the IAC is unplugged, and then going back up when it's plugged back in. this would suggest the computer is actually commanding the idle speed high. The questions from here are, is the computer getting a high power steering pressure input? Is the TPS spiking low, causing the computer to think the engine is at part throttle? Is the ECT, or IAT reporting to low of an engine temperature? This is where the correct scan tool becomes so important, because it allows the person trying to fix the car to see this information right from the computer.