You may have long ago fixed this, but I had the same problem with my Toro 824. I kept what I did in my diary, as follows: After all the usual adjustments and suspecting the friction disk, eventually I decided that the drive pulley was riding way too close to the auger pulley, and found that there was too much slop or "play" in the main drive shaft, on which all the pulleys and drive contact points are mounted. I came to the conclusion that the far rear end of the drive shaft was riding too far down toward the front of the machine. This moved the forward drive pulley too far forward as well, away from the friction disk. On disassembly I discovered that on the main shaft there was a roll pin that had sheared off, allowing the washers to ride over it and make all the mechanism sloppy enough to keep the friction disk from making proper contact. I bought a new roll pin from Toro for $3, and it made the drive mechanism run like new. I hope this helps.

Just wondering I have a broadmore with this and was wondering if anyone knows how It works? The other day I was cutting the neighbors lawn and the right tire was spinning and *I didn't see it switch over to the other side like I thought it should. Posted by goblin127 .............................................. ........................................ *Simplicitys don't switch power from one wheel to the other wheel like most locking differentials do. Instead power is applied to both rear wheels all of the time.

As engine compression braking on adverse roadbed conditions can have severe adverse effects(***), from a safety standpoint, on FWD or front biased AWD vehicles I would first advise you to consider only RWD or rear torque biased AWD vehicles. Having said that, since FWD is so inherently hazardous in those conditions almost ALL modern day FWD vehicles will be equipped with Traction control, if not both stability control and traction control. The best of all worlds from a driving safety standpoint would be a rear torque biased AWD vehicle equipped with stability and traction control. *** On adverse roadbed conditions the front tires' roadbed contact patch should always be reserved exclusively for maintaining directional control of the vehicle. Inadvertent engine compression braking at the front due to your instinctive lift-throttle response to an adverse event can potentially result in loss of control of the vehicle. Additionally it has now been well documented that engine compression braking will/can interfere with the ABS, Anti-lock Braking System's ability to momentarily release the braking enough and thereby allow the driver to maintain directional control. Most modern day FWD vehicles have a revised shift pattern that prevents the engine from providing any significant level of braking during a lift-throttle coastdown event.

My mother's caregiver just put E85 in my 2012 Toyota Camry. About 3 days ago. I'm brand new to this and have been studying online. Your Forum discussion has put my mind at ease. I put 5 gallons of regular unleaded in it to top it off. I will not try to burn it off over the next three or four hundred miles. It does feel like the power has increased, because with the traction control off I can smoke the tires with the V6 on the front wheel drive. I see this discussion it's over 7 years old. But it sure is helping me today thanks you guys