As I always try and point out, testing during a failure is the only way to be 100% sure about what is wrong, and then especially to prove that the car is genuinely repaired. That being said, the Ford factory scan tool, such as the IDS that I have will access the PATS system and even allow me to monitor which button is being pushed on the drivers door pad. The seals on the door button pad fail and eventually the contacts start to corrode and you can end up with symptoms that would match your description. Another symptom associated with this button pad corrosion is the interior lights can come on by themselves, which occurs if the BCM senses that one of the buttons has made contact. On my scan tool I would see either a NO for no button pushed or 3/4 as in if the BCM thinks it sees the 3/4 button pressed. A false or incorrect response from the keypad while monitoring the scan data is all I would need to confirm the pad is failing. The odds are better than 90% you will need to replace the key pad on the drivers door.

Hi All, I had the same issue recently and here's what I found out (through a LOT of research) and the solution (yes, there is one!): As described by many, when you can't get both the remote and the wireless pad to work together it means your garage door opener can accept both rolling code and billing code technology, BUT not at the same time. When you reset all codes (normally by pressing a button on the opener for a period of time e.g. 6 seconds or more), you erase all codes and remote "pairings". Then when you follow the manufacturer's procedure to pair again (which could be the wireless key pad first OR the remote first), the first pairing determines the technology for all subsequent pairings. Example: if your first pairing/programming was with the wireless keypad, and if it was rolling code technology (normally the case for newer models), then the garage opener will only recognize and accept rolling code for subsequent pairings. If your remote(s) are older (billion code technology) then the opener won't even recognize the signal (e.g. led won't blink when trying to pair/program). And vice versa if you start with your remote after erasing all programming (then your keyless pad won't work). But here is a potential workaround! For newer wireless keypads (e.g. clicker from chamberlain), you have an option to select the type of opener you are using as you do the initial password set up (normally indicated by a number e.g. 1 for models built after 1995, 2 for models built between 1997 and 2004, etc). Each choice is associated with a technology in the background (e.g. either rolling code or billion code). If you are programming your wireless keypad first after erasing all codes / programming, if you chose the "recommended" option for garage opener, chances are it will be rolling code and that means you won't be able to program your older remotes (billion code) after that. So how can you chose the option that will match your remote??? Here's what you do: start by pairing / programming your older remote first after erasing all codes / programs. That sets the technology (e.g. billion code). Then, go ahead and program your wireless keypad, but you may have to go through the process several times by trying the different options until you find one that works! For me, I had to try 4 options before making it work. Options 1 through 3 (mind you, options #2 was the exact match for my garage door opener model but it would cause the problem discussed here e.g. wireless keypad would work but not the remotes) would not even be recognized by the opener in this procedure (LED would not blink), but it did work once I hit option 4. I hope this will help you with your problem. Let me know if it's not clear. Cheers!

Locate the smart/learn button on the rear of the motor unit near where all those white wires go. Press and immediately release this and then walk over to the keypad and key in any 4 digit code you like and press enter. If this doesn't work your keypad has failed.

you need to make sure that the wireless hardware is consistent I would do a cross check by model numbers of the opener and the specific wireless keypad to check compatibility.