"what sould the com be on a 5hp b&s engine. i put a new head gasket on it,im getting 30 psi. wasgetting 0 before, the valves seem to be working but i cant start this leaf blower for nothing, im getting gas & spark. How long should it hols the 30 lbs." Let's circle back to what the original poster was asking about and re-read what he said. He was getting -0- before and 30 psi after a head gasket change. To me that indicates the possibility of a warped head - or a poorly installed new head gasket.

jbryson1, welcome to the board. As a Ford Electrical engineer (retired) we will find some common ground, and probably some where we will bump heads. While specific vehicle knowledge can come into play on some models, and plug and play is acceptable, there are others out there that plug and play attempts can cause serious problems so that really should be avoided at all costs. First thing, the 4WD indicator blinking does indicate a fault in the 4WD system, and they probably would not have 4WD available if they needed it. One of the biggest things they need to know is the dealer isn't the only place to have this looked at. Most independents can handle GEM module issues with the run of the mil scan tools such as the Snap-On MTG2500, the Genisys, or the Mastertech. However top shops will have an NGS on hand for these systems as well. As far as the repair that was done a few months ago, forget about it for the moment Sue. The car should be diagnosed right now as if it's never had any other problems or repairs. It would really be a waste of time and effort to pull the door panel and start looking at things first, before following a proper diagnostic routine. That being said, the easiest circuit to deal with is the power window circuit. As I said, for this car, and especially this system, I would choose the NGS for my scan tool. The first step I would perform is pull the drivers door switch, and check for power at the LT Blue/Black wire. If there is no power to that wire with the key on, I would use my NGS and attempt to command the ACCY delay relay on/off. BTW, the ACCY Delay relay not only controls the power windows, it also powers up the torque on demand relay, which is part of the 4WD system. Depending on my findings at this point I would be either headed towards the ACCY delay relay, or the GEM module for the next step in the diagnostics. But the most important thing, is I would not be getting anything to plug in and try, and this is where jb and I will be at odds. Ford for some reason has never embraced the idea that technicians are capable of critical thinking skills, and quite able to analyze a system like this. All we need in many cases is a fault code, the criteria that the system uses to determine the fault, and an appropriate schematic, and we will go find the problem in an efficient manor. Now the main reason that I would start where I did in my diagnostics? The switch is easy to access. Plus you said you "windows" don't work which I take as being all of them. The RH door does not get controlled directly through the GEM module. But the ACCY Delay relay, is controlled by the battery saver relay, and it is controlled by the GEM. Once you understand the circuit, it would be easy to temporarily take control of one or both relays away from the GEM, and see if you can operate them and the windows. That is the outline for a solid diagnostic routine, and armed with a schematic, and the correct tools any tech would diagnose your car without unneccesary expense and substitution of "known good parts" that you don't presently own. Use the link below to find a good electrical/electronics technician near you. Here is a link that might be useful: the international Automotive Technicians Network

My husband works for the county prison and when the towels that the inmates use start to get holey, the county purchases new ones and throws the one ones away. My husband collects them before they go to trash and brings them home. (Garbage bags full) We rip them up and use them for rags for things like washing the car, washing windows, dusting, cleaning the grill etc. By the way, he does bring these from work but he has approval to bring them home instead of having them thrown away. As for me, I work at a hospital. Whenever we get a new patient, they get a welcome pack that includes a large water cup with a lid and anti-embolism stockings. A large amount of the patients don't even open the bags that they come in so when they get discharged, if the bags are still sealed, I take those two items home for use. (I ask my nurse manager first!) I give away a lot of those items to friends and family. The stockings are terrific and cost 10 to 15 bucks at the store.

Many of the things have been covered so I'll try to avoid duplicates. But another caution: $20 will buy jumper cables good for Texas or Arizona, but not for Minnesota or North Dakota. You'll spend 2-3 times that for a decent set worthy of carrying around here. Check the gauge of the wire and the clamps. Buy from a reputable place, not a discount department store, if you want a good set. Another caution is a cell phone is a good idea but will do you no good without power. Always buy a car adapter and keep it in the vehicle. "Emergency" cell phones, won't be maintained so they won't be charged. Without a charger you stand no chance of using it. Also, be sure to check coverage. Why get one that won't have coverage when you need it? Also, if you need to repair a hose, don't go for the duct tape right away. Electrical tape will seal the hole better. Duct tape won't. Wrap it well with electrical tape and *then* give a wrap of the silver miracle. The grey gold will keep the electrical tape in place better and seal itself better. I always used a coffee can and put a roll of toilet paper in a plastic bag, double bagged, actually. Also had some matches and some large heavy duty garbage bags. A garbage bag will be a one-size-fits-most for a rain poncho, and have numerous other uses. People who use eyeglasses should keep an extra pair in the vehicle, especially if your license requires you to wear them while driving. I always keep water in the vehicle. Sure it freezes in the winter but the small bottles thaw quickly. I also keep aspirin, antacids and the like so I don't have to buy them at outrageous prices if needed. I just take a small bottle and keep a few in there. A roll of paper towels cut in half fits nicely in a coffee can and gives you an alternative to the toilet paper and gives you some ready napkins and something to use to clean up those accidents. Put the garbage bags in there and I like a few wet wipes. Tow chain or a tow strap. Takes little room. Oh, I use the crank flashlights. No need to worry about batteries. I usually like to carry a gallon of window wash fluid (de-icer in the winter) and a gallon of antifreeze. If you break a hose you can get the radiator filled. Dump in the antifreeze and it can get you going to a place to add some water. Or if your near a water source, even a lake, stream or ditch, you have a container for the water. Clothes appropriate for the climate. And a comealong winch is a good idea too. Can extend the reach of the tow strap and you can winch yourself out of a bad spot. And I believe in keeping some cash, including change, in the vehicle. Pay phones used to be a big reason but that's more obsolete now but if you have to buy some gas, or bandages or something, you might find a few dollars handy. Nobody's saying you should carry everything everyone has suggested. Very few people would find a gas wrench useful - most wouldn't know how to use it. So you use it for ideas. Modify it. There is no all-inclusive list that will work for everyone. Some things you would take on a trip but not leave in there all the time. Some things should be in there. Minnesota requires you to carry proof of insurance. I keep one card in my wallet and one in the vehicle. Belt and suspenders I suppose. I still haven't gotten around to stocking my "new" vehicle yet. But probably have most of it in there. When the weather gets nicer I'll clean it out and check inventory against my checklist.